Ipomoea alba

Plant Profile & Key Characteristics

Overview: The moonflower, a fast-growing twining vine of 2-5 m (6-15 ft), grown as an ornamental annual or tender perennial for its large, fragrant white flowers that open at night.

Quick Specifications

Specification	Attribute
Plant Type / Life Cycle	Perennial (evergreen) grown as an annual; annual in cold climates
Foliage Type	Evergreen where frost-free; herbaceous annual elsewhere
Mature Size	2-5 m (6-15 ft) climbing
Growth Rate	Fast
Root System	Fibrous
Toxicity	Seeds toxic if ingested (contain alkaloids)
Hardiness	USDA zone 10+ as perennial; zone 6+ grown as an annual

Growth Form & Structure

• Height & Spread: Twines 2-5 m (6-15 ft) up a support in the ground; grows in containers (10-30 L / 2.5-8 gal) with a trellis.
• Growth Habit & Form: Fast, twining vine; can be aggressive and self-seeding.
• Lifespan & Maturity: Reaches flowering size in a single season.

Anatomy & Physical Features

• Leaves & Foliage: Green, heart-shaped (to deltoid) leaves.
• Flower Characteristics: Large, fragrant white (sometimes pink) round to pentagonal flowers that open at night (see the Bloom guide).

Primary Uses & Landscape Value

• Functional & Ornamental Roles: Ornamental climber for trellises, fences and pergolas; also used as a fast groundcover or informal screen. Grows in large containers.

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: A vigorous herbaceous vine that thrives in full sun to part shade in warm, frost-free conditions. It grows best in rich, moist, well-ventilated soil with good drainage and appreciates steady moisture through the growing season.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Spring after last frost (as annual); year-round in zone 12+
Growth Rate	Fast
Soil Type	Rich, moist, well-ventilated soil with good drainage
Water Need	Moderate to High – keep the soil evenly moist

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant in spring after the last frost as an annual; where hardy, spring in zone 10a, spring to summer in 10b, spring to autumn in 11, and year-round in zone 12+.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig the hole about 50% wider than the root ball so the roots can spread into loosened soil.
  • Soil Amendments: Mix the excavated soil with organic matter, humus and dead leaves before backfilling to enrich and lighten it.
  • Planting Depth: Set the plant so the root collar sits level with the surrounding soil; firm gently but firmly so it will not topple, and install a trellis or support at planting time.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: In optimal conditions this is a fast grower that can cover a support in a single warm season.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Rich, moist but well-ventilated soil with good drainage; in containers (10–30 L) use free-draining mix with ample holes and avoid a permanently full saucer.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Water twice on the first day of planting, then daily for the first two weeks while the roots establish.
  • Established: Once established, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist; morning glories dislike drying out completely. It appreciates generous moisture but dislikes waterlogging.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Give more water in summer heat and taper off in cooler weather or winter dormancy.

Climate, Light & Hardiness

Moonflower is a tender tropical vine with large, evening-opening flowers, perennial in frost-free climates and grown as a warm-season annual where winters freeze, in full sun to half shade. It demands warmth and humidity and has essentially no frost tolerance, so cold is the limit on year-round outdoor culture outside roughly USDA zone 10.

Quick Climate Specifications

Climate Zones	Tropical, Mediterranean, desert, subtropical, temperate
USDA Hardiness Zones	About 10+ as a perennial; about 6+ grown as a warm-season annual
Optimal Temp Range	Approximately 22–30 °C (72–86 °F)
Cold Damage Begins	At or near freezing
Approx. Survival Minimum	Foliage killed by frost; perennial only in essentially frost-free conditions (about zone 10+)
Frost Tolerance	None to Very Low
Light Conditions	Full sun to half shade
Wind Tolerance	Moderate (twining stems need support)

Sunlight & Light Exposure

Optimal Light Setup

Full sun drives vigorous growth even though the fragrant flowers open in the evening and at night.

Direct Sun Requirement

Full, direct sun by day powers the best growth and bud production.

Best Exposure / Orientation

A warm, sunny wall or trellis, ideally near a patio where the night flowers can be enjoyed.

Temperature Extremes & Hardiness

USDA Hardiness & Regional Limits

Perennial in frost-free zones (about 10+); in zones 6–9 it is a warm-season annual killed each winter, so cold, not habit alone, ends the season.

Cold Damage & Winter Protection

Frost kills top growth; plants can be overwintered indoors and set out after the last frost.

Frost Sensitivity

High - one of the more heat-demanding morning glories.

Extreme Heat Tolerance

Excellent; a genuinely tropical vine that loves long, hot summers.

Frost-Free Growing Season

It needs a long, warm, frost-free season to flower, germinating best in warm soil around 22–30 °C (72–86 °F).

Wind, Humidity & Microclimate

Humidity Preferences

Prefers warm, humid air.

Wind Tolerance

Twining stems need support; shelter protects the large, delicate blooms.

Microclimate Recommendations

A warm, sheltered, sunny spot - and a long summer - give the best flowering.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Ipomoea alba (moonflower) is a fast climber of 2-5 m with large, fragrant white flowers that open at dusk – lovely trained over a balcony railing. It grows well from a roomy pot with support but is not a houseplant, needing full outdoor sun and space to climb.

Quick Details

• Container Size: 10-30 L (2.5-8 gal) – bigger is better for a fast climber
• Indoor Suitability: Not indoors – a vigorous climber needing full outdoor light
• Best Spot: Full sun to part shade, with support; flowers open in the evening
• Soil & Drainage: Well-ventilated, free-draining mix rich in organic matter
• Watering in Pots: Keep evenly moist – average to generous water; a pot dries fast

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant limits: The grower marks it as not an indoor plant – it climbs fast, needs full sun, and outgrows a room quickly.
• Windowsill growing: Not suitable; grow it outdoors with support, where its evening flowers can be enjoyed.
• Safety: The seeds are toxic if eaten – keep seeds and plants away from children and pets.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light, support & wind: A sunny balcony or patio is where this climber shines – give it a trellis, railing or strings to climb and shelter it from strong wind, which shreds the soft growth. Reflected heat from walls dries the pot fast, so check moisture daily in warm weather.
• Practicalities: Make sure the filled pot and its support are stable and that drainage runoff can escape freely without pooling below.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: Use a container of 10-30 L (2.5-8 gal) – bigger is better for these fast, hungry climbers. Keep the soil moist and make sure water drains out; it is better not to use a saucer under the pot.
• Potting mix: A well-ventilated mix with good drainage, rich in organic matter – a general potting mix, or peat soil with perlite or vermiculite.
• Feeding: Feed through the growing season; nutrients leach from pots faster than from open ground.
• Repotting (as a perennial): Every two years, switch the soil and prune back part of the roots and the top growth to keep it healthy.

Fertilizing & Feeding

Morning glory is an ornamental flowering vine fed mainly in spring; it wants balanced nutrition and rich, moist soil, but excess nitrogen gives rampant vine and fewer flowers.

Quick Fertilizing Specs

Feeding Level	Moderate
Main Nutrient Priority	Balanced nutrition; keep nitrogen in check for better bloom.
Best Feeding Period	Mainly in spring as growth begins, easing through summer.
Organic Options	Compost, humus and organic matter mixed into the soil.
Micronutrients	Usually covered by a complete fertilizer and rich soil; correct iron only if new growth yellows.
Soil pH	Tolerates a wide range; near neutral, rich, moist, well-drained soil is ideal.
Reduce/Stop Feeding	Ease off feeding after the flush of growth and through winter rest.

Feeding by Growth Stage

Spring growth flush

Support fresh shoots and leaves as the plant wakes up in spring.

Nutrient direction	A balanced complete feed with adequate nitrogen fuels healthy new growth.
Timing	As new growth begins in spring.
Frequency	A light, regular feed as spring growth begins.
Fertilizer types	A balanced complete fertilizer, Compost or well-rotted organic matter
Precautions	Keep feeding moderate; overly rich soil softens growth. Avoid heavy nitrogen, which drives leaves at the expense of flowers.

Flowering

Sustain flowering without pushing excess foliage.

Nutrient direction	A balanced feed supports steady bloom; adequate nitrogen, not high phosphorus, drives flowering.
Timing	Through the flowering season.
Frequency	Light, regular feeding through the flowering period.
Fertilizer types	A balanced complete fertilizer
Precautions	High-phosphorus ‘bloom booster’ feeds are unnecessary; a balanced feed and full sun give better flowering. Avoid heavy nitrogen, which drives leaves at the expense of flowers.

Dormancy or winter rest

Let the plant rest through cold or dormant months without forcing growth.

Nutrient direction	None – withhold fertilizer while the plant is not actively growing
Timing	During dormancy or cool-season rest when growth has stopped
Frequency	No feeding at this stage
Fertilizer types	No feeding at this stage – resume only when active growth returns
Precautions	Do not fertilize until active growth resumes; feeding a resting plant risks salt buildup and root injury

Nutrient Deficiency Signs & Corrections

Older, lower leaves fade to pale green or yellow overall and growth slows.

Possible causes	Low soil nitrogen or thin organic matter, Nitrogen leached out by heavy watering or rain on light soils, Cold, waterlogged roots limiting uptake
Appears first on	older, lower leaves
What to check	soil organic matter and recent feeding, whether heavy rain or irrigation may have leached nutrients, overall plant vigor and colour
Possible correction	Topdress with compost or apply a balanced complete fertilizer at label strength; keep watering steady but not excessive so nutrients are not washed away.

Youngest leaves yellow between the veins while the veins stay green.

Possible causes	High or alkaline soil pH locking up iron, Cold or waterlogged soil slowing root uptake, Genuinely low available iron
Appears first on	newest leaves at the shoot tips
What to check	soil pH and drainage, whether the soil is cold or saturated, overall root health
Possible correction	Correct soil pH and improve drainage first; if the youngest growth stays chlorotic, apply a chelated iron product following its label.

Lush leafy growth but few flowers.

Possible causes	Too much nitrogen from over-feeding, Overly rich soil relative to light levels, Insufficient sunlight for the demand created by heavy feeding
Appears first on	new leafy shoots at the expense of buds
What to check	recent feeding rate and fertilizer type, light exposure, balance of leaf growth versus budding
Possible correction	Ease back on nitrogen and switch to a balanced feed; ensure full sun so the plant channels energy into flowering rather than foliage.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Moonflower is a fast, heavy-growing herbaceous twining vine, popular for quickly screening a fence or trellis in a single season. It tolerates cutting well and rarely needs it for the plant’s own sake – its large, night-opening flowers form on new growth throughout the season and each bloom lasts a single night, so deadheading spent flowers is purely cosmetic rather than something that protects future buds. The real pruning task is managing the sheer volume of vegetative growth so it doesn’t smother its own support or shade itself out.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	High (herbaceous)
Primary Pruning Window	Mid-season, as needed to thin dense growth
Secondary Maintenance Window	After bloom / early winter cutback (perennial-grown, zone 10+)
Typical Frequency	Occasional, driven by how fast the canopy fills in
Main Objective	Prevent the vine’s own mass from self-shading or overwhelming its support
Young Plant Priority	Support in place early; let it establish without cutting
Mature Plant Priority	Thin congested growth so light reaches the whole canopy, not just the outer layer
Best Tool Type	Precision snips/bypass secateurs for the soft, fast-growing stems
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Peak bloom

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Minimal; provide a sturdy, roomy support immediately given how fast this vine fills in.

Young / Formative

Staking/trellis training only; no formal structure needed, just guide the leading shoots as they extend.

Mature / Established

Mid-season thinning of the densest sections so the whole plant keeps flowering, not just the outer canopy; general containment where space is limited.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Summer Canopy Management

Objective: prevent the vine’s own vigorous growth from shading out its lower/inner sections. Remove: the densest tangles of overlapping stems. Do not remove: actively flowering shoots. Expected response: better light penetration and more even flowering across the plant. Flowering impact: neutral to positive, since better-lit stems flower more freely.

Ongoing Sanitary

Remove dead or damaged growth at any time.

Structural Pruning & Training

Provide a support substantial enough for the volume of growth this vine produces, and thin congested sections mid-season – thinning genuinely helps this fast, dense grower, unlike a modestly-sized vine where it would be unnecessary.

Special Growth to Remove

• Overlapping, self-shading tangles of stems
• Dead or damaged growth

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Possible in a large container, but this is one of the more vigorous vines in the genus, so expect to prune more actively than a compact species to keep it within a small space – simply copying the light in-ground touch won’t be enough.

Tools

• Precision snips – for most shaping and thinning of soft stems
• Bypass secateurs – for the thicker basal growth on an established, fast-filled specimen
• Soft ties/stakes – training onto a support

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine: clean, sharp tools suffice. Recorded pests (weevil, moth, whitefly, aphids) aren’t typically spread by pruning cuts.

Cut Placement & Technique

Thin by removing whole overlapping stems back to their point of origin rather than shearing the surface, which just thickens the outer layer further; cut above a node for shaping.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

Tolerated well: because it grows so fast, a hard cutback is quickly replaced with fresh growth. Perennial-grown plants (zone 10+) can be cut back after bloom or in early winter to renew for next season.

Post-Pruning Care

Resume normal watering; no special feeding needed after a cutback given how vigorously this species regrows on its own.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Never thinning a dense, mature specimen, so flowering becomes concentrated on the outer canopy while the interior goes bare
• Under-sizing the support for how much growth this vine will actually produce in a season

When NOT to Prune

Avoid major cutback during peak bloom, since each flower is only open one night and there’s no benefit to sacrificing upcoming buds.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• Thinning dense mid-season growth – precision_snips: lets you selectively remove whole stems without shearing
• Basal cuts on an established, heavy specimen – bypass_secateurs
• Training onto a support – soft_ties_stakes

Propagation Guide

Moonflower grows well from its large, hard-coated seed and also roots readily from stem cuttings and layers. Seed of the species comes largely true to its white, night-opening flowers, while cuttings reproduce a plant exactly; overall an Easy vine, helped by soaking the tough seed before sowing.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Seed or stem cuttings
Alternative Methods	The other of seed / cuttings; ground layering
Propagation Difficulty	Easy
Seed True-to-Type	Mostly uniform for the species (white, night-opening flowers)
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes — a cutting or layer reproduces the parent, including flower colour
Best Propagation Season	Spring to summer
Seed Germination Time	2–7 weeks
Cutting Rooting Time	A few weeks under warm, humid conditions
Germination Temperature	22–30°C (72–86°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	1 cm (0.5 in)
Grafting Required	No

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Store seed in a dark, dry place until sowing.

Dormancy & Pre-Sowing Treatment

Morning glory seed has a hard coat; nicking it or soaking it in water overnight before sowing softens the coat and gives quicker, more even germination.

Sowing Season, Depth & Spacing

Sow in spring in most zones (and, in the warmest zones, from spring through autumn or year-round, avoiding the hottest days of summer). Sow about 1 cm (0.5 in) deep, spacing about 30×40 cm (12×16 in), or 4×4 cm (1.8×1.8 in) if pricking out seedlings to transplant. Sowing into peat with vermiculite — or adding vermiculite around the seed — helps hold moisture.

Germination Conditions & Time

Germinate at about 22–30°C (72–86°F) in moist soil with high humidity, ideally in a sunny spot. Emergence is spread over roughly 2–7 weeks, so germination can be staggered; soaking beforehand shortens the wait.

Seedling Care

Water seedlings regularly and never let them dry out.

Stem Cuttings

Best Timing

Take cuttings from spring to summer, when the vine is in active growth.

Rooting Setup

Root either in water — changing it every few days — or in moist soil kept constantly damp, keeping the cutting warm, around 25–30°C (77–86°F), with high humidity.

Rooting Hormone

Optional — the soft stems root readily on their own, though a rooting hormone can help.

Air & Ground Layering

Because these vines root easily along their stems, a length of stem can be bent down, covered with moist soil and left to root, then separated from the parent — a simple way to gain an extra plant identical to it.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Summer into autumn
• Time to First Bloom: From a spring sowing, plants usually begin flowering in mid to late summer
• Flower Appearance: Large, fragrant white (sometimes pink-tinged) trumpet-like flowers that open at dusk
• Edibility: Ornamental – grown for its night flowers; the seeds are toxic and not for eating

Detailed Blooming Overview

True to its name, moonflower opens its large, sweetly fragrant white blooms in the evening and holds them through the night, closing by the following morning. Each flower is broad and shallowly five-lobed, almost luminous in low light, which makes this vigorous vine a favourite for evening and moon gardens.

Flower Characteristics

• Large white to pale-pink flowers, round in outline with a faint five-lobed or pentagonal edge.
• Strongly fragrant, especially after dark.
• Open at night and spent by mid-morning.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Site for the evening: Plant where the night scent can be enjoyed, near a patio or path.
• Pollination: Night-blooming and fragrant, the flowers are worked by night-flying hawk moths.
• Deadheading: Removing faded blooms keeps the vine flowering freely.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Ornamental morning glories are fast, tough climbers that are rarely troubled seriously; their common visitors are chewing tortoise beetles and caterpillars plus sap-sucking aphids and whitefly, with rust and leaf spot the main diseases. Most ‘problems’ are really vigor — they self-seed and can become weedy — and poor flowering from excess nitrogen.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Tortoise / flea beetles	Small round holes and pits in leaves	Tolerate light damage, hand-pick, neem if heavy
Caterpillars (leaf-rollers, hornworm)	Chewed, rolled, skeletonized leaves	Hand-pick, Bacillus thuringiensis
Aphids	Sticky curled new growth, sooty mold	Water jet, insecticidal soap
Whitefly	Clouds of white flies, honeydew, yellowing	Yellow sticky traps, soap/oil
Spider mites	Stippling and webbing in hot dry spells	Hose foliage, oil/soap
Rust / leaf spot	White or brown pustules/spots on leaves	Airflow, dry foliage, remove leaves

Common Pests & Management

• Tortoise beetles & flea beetles (Charidotella / Cassidinae, Chaetocnema spp.):
  • Symptoms: Golden or metallic tortoise beetles and tiny flea beetles chew small round holes and pits in the leaves; the classic ‘shot-hole’ look, mostly cosmetic on vigorous vines.
  • Prevention & Control: Tolerate light feeding, hand-pick beetles, keep plants vigorous, and use neem or spinosad only if damage becomes heavy on young plants.
• Caterpillars (Sweet potato hornworm, leaf-rollers & webworms (Agrius, Spoladea, Bedellia)):
  • Symptoms: Chewed, skeletonized, or rolled and webbed leaves and defoliated shoot tips from various moth larvae.
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick and unroll leaves to remove larvae, encourage parasitic wasps and birds, and spray Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for significant infestations.
• Aphids (Aphis / Myzus spp.):
  • Symptoms: Soft green or dark insects on shoot tips and leaf undersides causing sticky, curled, distorted growth and sooty mold; they can spread viruses.
  • Prevention & Control: Blast with water, support ladybirds and lacewings, and use insecticidal soap or neem on stubborn colonies in the evening.
• Whitefly (Bemisia tabaci / Trialeurodes):
  • Symptoms: Clouds of tiny white flies that lift off when disturbed, with honeydew, sooty mold, and yellowing; important virus vectors in warm climates.
  • Prevention & Control: Hang yellow sticky traps, encourage natural enemies, and spray undersides with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating to break the cycle.
• Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae):
  • Symptoms: Fine stippling, bronzing, and webbing under leaves in hot, dry, stressed conditions.
  • Prevention & Control: Hose foliage, keep plants watered and unstressed, and treat undersides with insecticidal soap or a light horticultural oil.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• White rust / rust (Albugo ipomoeae-panduratae, Coleosporium):
  • Symptoms: Raised white blister-like pustules or orange-brown rust spots on leaf undersides with yellowing above, in humid conditions.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy affected leaves, space and train for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and use a labelled fungicide only under heavy pressure.
• Fungal leaf spot & anthracnose (Cercospora, Colletotrichum):
  • Symptoms: Brown, tan, or black spots and blotches on leaves, sometimes coalescing and causing early leaf drop in wet weather.
  • Treatment & Management: Clear fallen litter, improve airflow, keep foliage dry, and apply copper only if spotting becomes severe.
• Stem & root rot / wilt (Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, Pythium):
  • Symptoms: Wilting, yellowing, and a soft rotted stem base or roots in overwet, poorly drained soil.
  • Treatment & Management: Grow in well-drained soil, avoid overwatering, and remove affected plants; give good drainage in containers.
• Viral mosaic (aphid/whitefly-borne):
  • Symptoms: Mottled, mosaic, or distorted foliage and reduced vigor spread by sap-sucking vectors.
  • Treatment & Management: There is no cure — remove symptomatic plants, control aphids and whitefly, and manage weed hosts.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Aggressive, weedy self-seeding:
  • Cause & Symptoms: The main real ‘problem’: vigorous growth and prolific self-seeding let morning glories climb over and smother neighbors and reappear as volunteers for years.
  • Correction Strategy: Site where vigor is welcome, deadhead before seeds ripen to limit self-sowing, and pull volunteers early; grow on a strong support with room to run. I. alba (moonflower) is night-blooming and moth-pollinated.
• Poor flowering from excess nitrogen:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Lush leafy vines with few flowers when soil is too rich or over-fed.
  • Correction Strategy: Grow in lean-to-average soil in full sun, avoid nitrogen-rich feeding, and give plenty of light to shift the plant from leaf to bloom.
• Frost sensitivity:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Blackening and collapse of these tender annual/tropical vines at first frost.
  • Correction Strategy: Grow as a warm-season annual in cold climates; sow after frost and expect it to die back with the first hard freeze.
• Hard-coated seed & poor germination:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Slow, erratic germination from the tough, water-resistant seed coat.
  • Correction Strategy: Nick (scarify) and soak seeds before sowing to speed and even out germination.

What Helps — Products & Tools

Ornamental morning glories seldom need much beyond gentle tools: a water jet, insecticidal soap, and neem for aphids, whitefly, and mites, Bacillus thuringiensis for caterpillars, and yellow sticky traps for whitefly. Airflow and sanitation handle rust and leaf spot; copper is a last resort. The main ‘management tool’ is restraint — deadheading and pulling volunteers to curb their weedy vigor.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Ipomoea alba (moonflower)?

Moonflower is a tender tropical climbing vine grown for its large, fragrant white flowers that open at night, quickly covering trellises, fences, or arbors.

How do you grow moonflower (Ipomoea alba) from seed?

Sow the seed about 1 cm (0.5 in) deep in spring, keeping it warm and moist at around 22–30°C (72–86°F) with high humidity. Because the seed coat is hard, nicking it or soaking it in water overnight before sowing speeds germination, which otherwise emerges over roughly 2–7 weeks.

Are moonflower seeds poisonous?

Yes. Ipomoea alba seeds are toxic if ingested because they contain alkaloids, so keep seeds and plants away from children and pets.

How long do moonflower’s flowers last, and when do they open?

Moonflower opens its large, sweetly fragrant white blooms in the evening and holds them through the night, closing by the following morning. Each individual flower lasts a single night.

Why isn’t my moonflower flowering well?

Poor flowering is usually caused by excess nitrogen, which gives lush leafy vines with few flowers when the soil is too rich or over-fed. Grow in lean-to-average soil in full sun, avoid nitrogen-rich feeding, and give plenty of light to shift the plant from leaf to bloom.