Anemone coronaria

Plant Profile & Key Characteristics

Overview: Anemone coronaria (poppy anemone) is a deciduous perennial geophyte reaching 10-50 cm (4-20 in), grown from a tuber. It is grown as an ornamental and cut flower for its vivid, poppy-like blooms.

Quick Specifications

Specification	Attribute
Plant Type / Life Cycle	Perennial (herbaceous geophyte)
Foliage Type	Deciduous
Mature Size	10-50 cm (4-20 in) tall
Growth Rate	Moderate
Root System	Tuberous geophyte
Toxicity	Toxic – contains protoanemonin (buttercup family); sap can irritate skin
Hardiness	USDA zone 6-11 (lift the tuber for winter in colder zones)

Growth Form & Structure

• Height & Spread: 10-50 cm (4-20 in) tall in the ground; can also be grown in planters and containers
• Growth Habit & Form: Low clump of ferny basal leaves with single flowers on upright stems, arising from a tuber
• Lifespan & Maturity: Perennial tuber, often lifted and stored between seasons; flowers in late winter to early spring

Anatomy & Physical Features

• Leaves & Foliage: Green, lobed, pinnate to bi-pinnate ferny leaves borne on stems
• Flower Characteristics: Bowl-shaped single or full blooms in red, burgundy, white, purple, pink or blue, often multi-coloured with a dark centre (see the Bloom guide)

Primary Uses & Landscape Value

• Functional & Ornamental Roles: Ornamental bedding and border plant and a popular cut flower

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Anemone coronaria (poppy anemone) is a clump-forming, deciduous perennial for temperate to Mediterranean gardens (hardiness zone 6-11), growing in full sun to part shade. It does best in loamy, well-draining soil that stays on the drier side in summer.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Spring in cold climates, autumn in milder ones
Growth Rate	Moderate
Soil Type	Loamy, well-draining soil
Water Need	Low to Moderate – moist in growth, dry during summer dormancy

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant in spring in cold-winter regions, or in autumn where winters are mild.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole a little wider than the root ball in loosened, free-draining soil.
  • Soil Amendments: Work in organic matter to build a loamy, moisture-retentive yet well-drained soil.
  • Planting Depth: Soak the tubers for about a day before planting, then set them a few centimetres deep with the growing point uppermost.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: A moderate grower forming a clump around 10-50 cm tall; it spreads steadily once settled.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Loamy, well-draining soil suits it best, as it dislikes waterlogging, especially over winter. In containers use a free-draining potting mix.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Keep the soil evenly moist while plants establish their roots.
  • Established: Water moderately while the plant is in leaf and flower, letting the surface dry between waterings.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Keep the tuber dry during its summer dormancy; in the coldest and hottest zones lift and store it while resting.

Climate, Light & Hardiness

Poppy anemone is a tuberous perennial suited to Mediterranean, desert, subtropical, and temperate climates, grown outdoors within USDA zones 6–11 with appropriate seasonal bulb care at the range's edges. It prefers full sun to half shade and a dry, well-drained summer dormancy period.

Quick Climate Specifications

Climate Zones	Mediterranean, Desert, Subtropical, Temperate
USDA Hardiness Zones	6–11
Frost Tolerance	Moderate (tuber can be damaged by hard freezing if left in the ground)
Light Conditions	Full Sun to Half Shade

Sunlight & Light Exposure

Optimal Light Setup

Grows and flowers best in full sun, with half shade as a tolerated alternative, particularly in hotter climates.

Shade & Heat Management

In warmer zones some afternoon shade can reduce stress, though the tuber's summer dormancy is the main heat-avoidance strategy rather than foliage shading.

Temperature Extremes & Hardiness

USDA Hardiness & Regional Limits

Grows outdoors year-round with good care across USDA zones 6–11. Planting timing follows climate: spring to summer planting in zones 6–10a, and autumn to winter planting in the warmer zones 10b–11.

Cold Damage & Winter Protection

In the colder part of its range (roughly zone 2–6) the tuber is not reliably winter-hardy in the ground and is typically lifted and stored indoors over winter, then replanted in spring.

Frost Sensitivity

At the hottest end of its range (zone 11–12a) the tuber is instead lifted and stored over summer, since it is the extreme heat and dry dormancy period - not cold - that limits it there. Frost tolerance of foliage is limited; hard freezes can damage top growth even where the tuber itself survives.

Wind, Humidity & Microclimate

Rainfall & Seasonal Moisture

Adapted to a Mediterranean-type rainfall pattern: moist, well-drained soil during active growth and flowering, followed by a drier dormant season - consistently wet summer soil is not tolerated well.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Anemone coronaria is a tender, tuberous spring flower the grower does not class as a houseplant, but it takes very well to pots – which lets you soak and start the tubers and lift them for dormancy. A cool, bright windowsill can force a pot into flower. Its sap can irritate, so keep it away from small children and pets.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A medium pot; plant several soaked tubers together
• Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant, but a cool, bright sill can flower a pot
• Best Spot: Full sun to light shade
• Soil & Drainage: Free-draining mix; it needs a drier dormant rest
• Watering in Pots: Moderate in growth; keep drier through dormancy

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant limits: The grower marks it as not a houseplant, but as a compact pot plant it forces well on a cool, well-lit sill.
• Windowsill growing: Pre-soak the tubers, start them cool, then give bright light; avoid a hot, stuffy sill.
• Overwintering & safety: Lift and store the tubers dry for their rest; the sap can irritate skin and is best kept from children and pets.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & exposure: A bright, cool-season spot suits it; it flowers in the cooler part of the year.
• Practicalities: Keep evenly moist in growth, then let the pot dry as foliage fades.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: A medium pot of pre-soaked tubers – use a container with strong drainage holes; skip a standing-water saucer to avoid root rot.
• Pot material: Terracotta breathes and dries fast (good where you tend to overwater); glazed or plastic pots hold moisture longer.
• Potting mix: a light, aerated potting mix – peat or coir blended with perlite or vermiculite, plus some organic matter/compost.
• Feeding: Potted plants exhaust their feed faster because water washes nutrients out, so feed a little more often than plants in open ground during active growth.
• Repotting: Refresh the top of the mix each growing season and pot up or divide roughly every couple of years, trimming crowded roots.

Fertilizing & Feeding

A tuberous geophyte grown mainly as an ornamental and cut flower: light, balanced feeding during active leaf growth supports its colorful bowl-shaped flowers, and feeding stops once foliage dies back and the tuber goes dormant.

Quick Fertilizing Specs

Feeding Level	Light feeder
Main Nutrient Priority	Balanced feeding during leaf growth ahead of and through bloom
Best Feeding Period	From leaf emergence through the flowering period
Reduce/Stop Feeding	Stop feeding once flowering ends and foliage begins dying back toward dormancy
Organic Options	Well-drained, loamy soil enriched with compost suits this species better than heavy feeding
Soil pH	Well-drained loamy soil is more important here than a specific pH target

Feeding by Growth Stage

Leaf growth after planting

Support development of the lobed, pinnate-to-bipinnate foliage as the tuber sends up new growth.

Nutrient direction	A light, balanced feeding supports steady leaf development without overwhelming the tuber.
Timing	As foliage emerges and develops after planting.
Frequency	Light feeding through this growth phase is generally enough.
Fertilizer types	A balanced, complete fertilizer applied lightly, Compost worked into well-drained, loamy soil at planting
Precautions	Keep soil moist but well-drained; this tuberous species is prone to rot in soggy conditions.

Flowering

Sustain the bowl-shaped, multi-colored flowers prized for garden display and cutting.

Nutrient direction	Continue light, balanced feeding through bloom; heavy fertility is not needed for good flower color or form in this species.
Timing	Through the flowering period.
Frequency	Feeding needs are minimal once the plant is actively blooming.
Fertilizer types	A balanced, complete fertilizer at a light rate, if foliage suggests it is needed
Precautions	Avoid heavy feeding or overwatering during bloom, which can shorten flower life and encourage rot.

Post-bloom dieback and dormancy

Let foliage die back naturally so the tuber can enter dormancy without added fertility.

Nutrient direction	None – withhold fertilizer once flowering ends and leaves and stems are cut back for dormancy.
Timing	After flowering finishes, as the plant is cut back and the tuber rests or is lifted.
Frequency	No feeding at this stage; resume light feeding only when new leaf growth begins again.
Fertilizer types	No feeding at this stage; do not fertilize a dormant or lifted tuber.
Precautions	Withhold fertilizer during dormancy; focus instead on proper storage or soil conditions for the resting tuber.

Nutrient Deficiency Signs & Corrections

Pale, weak foliage and reduced flower production.

Possible causes	low soil fertility at planting, insufficient organic matter in the root zone, a tuber that was small or poorly stored before planting
Appears first on	new leaves
What to check	soil fertility and organic matter, tuber size and condition at planting, recent feeding history
Possible correction	Apply a light, balanced feeding during active leaf growth and enrich soil with compost at the next planting.

Foliage yellows and collapses, or the tuber feels soft when checked.

Possible causes	waterlogged or poorly drained soil, overwatering, especially combined with fertilizer salts, fungal rot organisms favored by wet conditions
Appears first on	base of the foliage and the tuber itself
What to check	soil drainage and recent watering, tuber firmness, planting depth
Possible correction	Improve drainage, reduce watering, and avoid fertilizing wet or already-stressed tubers.

Healthy foliage but few or weak flowers.

Possible causes	insufficient light during the growth period, a tuber too small or immature to bloom well, excess nitrogen favoring leaves over flowers
Appears first on	flower buds and stems
What to check	light exposure, tuber size at planting, recent fertilizer balance
Possible correction	Ensure adequate light, plant good-sized tubers, and keep feeding light and balanced rather than nitrogen-heavy.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Poppy anemone is a winter-to-spring flowering tuberous geophyte; like other Mediterranean-climate bulbs it needs almost no true pruning. The only real cutback is clearing foliage and flower stems once the plant has finished blooming and gone fully dormant in summer, since the tuber then rests dry until the next growing season. Cutting green foliage before it dies back on its own reduces the tuber’s stored reserves and next year’s flowering.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Low – cleanup timed to dormancy
Primary Pruning Window	Summer, only after the plant has fully gone dormant
Secondary Maintenance Window	Deadheading during the end-of-winter–spring bloom, to prolong flowering
Typical Frequency	Deadhead through bloom; one cutback at dormancy
Main Objective	Prolong bloom via deadheading; clear dead top growth once dormant
Young Plant Priority	None – remove only damaged leaves
Mature Plant Priority	Full cutback once fully yellowed, ahead of lifting tubers in colder zones
Best Tool Type	Precision snips
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Active bloom, and while foliage is still green post-bloom

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Remove only damaged leaves.

Young / Formative

No structural training – a low geophyte with no framework.

Mature / Established

Deadhead through the bloom season; once foliage has fully yellowed and collapsed in summer, clear all top growth (and lift tubers for storage in hardiness zones where they aren’t left in the ground).

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Post-Flowering / Dormancy-onset (Summer)

Objective: clear fully dead top growth. Remove: collapsed leaves and stems. Do not remove: any green leaf tissue, which is still recharging the tuber. Expected response: a stronger tuber and bloom the following season. Flowering impact: premature cutting reduces next year’s flowering.

Special Growth to Remove

• Spent flower stems – deadhead to the base to extend bloom.
• Dead foliage at full dormancy.

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Grows well in pots; the same deadhead-then-dormancy-cutback routine applies. Potted tubers are easy to lift and store dry over summer.

Tools

Precision snips only.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine.

Cut Placement & Technique

Deadhead spent stems down to the foliage clump; clear dead foliage at or near soil level once fully collapsed.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

Not applicable – the plant dies back completely to the tuber every year regardless of pruning.

Post-Pruning Care

Withhold water once cut back for dormancy, since the tuber needs a dry rest; no fertilizing during dormancy.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Cutting back green foliage too early, which weakens the tuber.
• Leaving tubers in wet soil through summer dormancy in climates where lifting is recommended.

When NOT to Prune

While foliage is still green after bloom; during active flowering except for deadheading.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• precision_snips – the only tool needed for deadheading and dormancy cleanup.

Propagation Guide

Poppy anemone can be grown from seed or from its tuberous root, but the site notes it is easier to start from the tuber than from seed, and dividing new tubers from the mother plant is the surest way to keep flower color true – useful since seed-grown color can also vary and is influenced by soil acidity and composition. Both methods work well: Easy from tubers, Moderate from seed given its pre-sowing cold requirement.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Tuber (planting/dividing the tuberous root)
Alternative Methods	Seed
Propagation Difficulty	Easy (tuber); Moderate (seed – requires a cold period)
Seed True-to-Type	Variable – flower color can vary and is also affected by soil acidity/composition
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes
Best Propagation Season	Spring to summer in hardiness zone 6–10a; autumn to winter in zone 10b–11
Seed Germination Time	1–2 weeks
Germination Temperature	Cool, 10°C (50°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	0.5–1cm (0.25–0.5 inches)

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Store seed in a cool, dry location until sowing.

Dormancy & Pre-Sowing Treatment

Seeds need to be buried and kept for at least 1–4 weeks under 10°C (50°F) before germinating – a cold-exposure requirement.

Sowing Season

Spring to summer in hardiness zone 6–10a; autumn to winter in zone 10b–11.

Sowing Depth & Orientation

Sow 0.5–1cm (0.25–0.5 inches) deep, spacing sowings roughly 20x30cm (8×12 inches) apart.

Germination Conditions

Moist, well-drained soil with light humidity, kept cool at around 10°C (50°F); water seedbeds with an average amount of water.

Germination Time

1–2 weeks.

Seedling Care

Keep seedlings cool, ideally under 20°C (68°F).

Rhizomes, Tubers, Bulbs & Corms

Poppy anemone grows from a small knobby tuber (sometimes loosely called a bulb, though botanically a tuber). Before planting, soak the tubers in water for about 24 hours in a cool area to rehydrate them. Propagate by dividing new tubers away from the mother plant, and plant/divide at the same season as sowing above: spring to summer in hardiness zone 6–10a, or autumn to winter in zone 10b–11.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Late winter to early spring
• Time to First Bloom: From soaked corms it flowers in roughly three months, within its first season
• Flower Appearance: Bowl-shaped single or double flowers in red, white, purple, bordeaux, pink or blue, often with a dark central boss of stamens
• Edibility: Not edible – anemones are toxic and can irritate the skin

Detailed Blooming Overview

Poppy anemone is one of the finest cool-season cut flowers, its jewel-toned bowls rising on strong stems from late winter into spring. Corms are usually soaked before planting in cool weather. Petal colour can be nudged by the soil, and many flowers show a lighter or darker eye, especially in the red forms.

Flower Characteristics

• Bowl-shaped, single or double, in red, white, purple, bordeaux, pink or blue, sometimes multi-coloured.
• A dark central ring of stamens sets off the petals; soil chemistry can shift the shade.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Deadheading: Pick or remove spent blooms to keep a steady succession.
• Cut flowers: Harvest as the buds colour up for the longest vase life.
• Safety: The sap can irritate skin and the plant is toxic if eaten – not for consumption.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Powdery mildew: Common in cool, crowded plantings – space plants for airflow, and a sulfur-based fungicide helps if it appears.
• Botrytis (grey mould): Spoils blooms in damp, still spells; remove faded flowers promptly and keep air moving.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Anemone coronaria is a tuberous windflower grown from corms/tubers. Anemones are relatively resilient but are grazed hard by slugs and snails and attacked by aphids, caterpillars/cutworms, flea beetles and both leaf and root nematodes; their main diseases are powdery and downy mildew, anemone smut, rust and leaf spot, with viruses in older stock. Culturally, its tubers rot readily if planted in wet, cold soil, so drainage and sanitation lead the management.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Slugs & snails	Grazed, holed leaves and flowers; slime	Hand-pick at night, iron-phosphate bait, barriers
Aphids	Curled, sticky shoot tips; virus spread	Water-blast, beneficials, insecticidal soap
Caterpillars / cutworms	Chewed leaves; seedlings cut at base	Hand-pick, collars, Bt
Leaf & root nematodes	Vein-bounded leaf blotches; stunting	Remove leaves, clean stock, dry foliage
Powdery / downy mildew	White coating / grey-purple undersides	Airflow, base watering, sulphur/copper
Anemone smut & rust	Black blistered leaves; rust pustules	Remove infected leaves, resistant stock

Common Pests & Management

• Slugs & snails (Deroceras / Helix spp.):
  • Symptoms: Ragged holes and grazed, tattered leaves, buds and flowers with silvery slime trails; most damaging to soft new spring growth and low-growing tuberous types (matching the source note).
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick after dark, clear damp hiding places, water in the morning, and use iron-phosphate bait with copper or grit barriers around clumps.
• Aphids (Myzus / Aphis spp.):
  • Symptoms: Green or black soft insects clustering on shoot tips, buds and flower stalks, causing curling, honeydew and sooty mould; they also transmit viruses.
  • Prevention & Control: Blast off with water, conserve ladybirds, lacewings and parasitic wasps, control ants, and use insecticidal soap or neem for heavy colonies.
• Caterpillars & cutworms (Noctuidae / Agrotis spp.):
  • Symptoms: Chewed, holed leaves and flowers with dark frass; cutworms sever young plants at the soil line overnight.
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick, use cardboard collars for cutworms, encourage birds and predatory wasps, and apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to young larvae.
• Flea beetles (Phyllotreta spp.):
  • Symptoms: Tiny jumping beetles pit young leaves with small round ‘shot-holes’, mainly on tender new growth.
  • Prevention & Control: Protect emerging plants with row cover, keep beds weed-free, and use kaolin clay or spot treatment if damage is heavy.
• Leaf & stem nematode (Aphelenchoides spp.):
  • Symptoms: Angular brown-to-black blotches sharply bounded by the leaf veins, spreading upward in wet conditions; leaves shrivel and die.
  • Prevention & Control: Remove and destroy affected leaves, avoid wetting foliage, space for quick drying, use clean stock, and discard badly infested plants.
• Cutworm / root-feeding grubs (Agrotis / Otiorhynchus spp.):
  • Symptoms: Roots and tubers grazed by soil-dwelling grubs and vine-weevil larvae, causing wilting and collapse of otherwise healthy plants.
  • Prevention & Control: Check soil and rootballs, water in beneficial nematodes against weevil grubs, and cultivate to expose grubs to predators.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Powdery mildew (Erysiphe / Podosphaera spp.):
  • Symptoms: White powdery patches on leaves and stems in warm days with cool nights and crowded plantings, causing yellowing and distortion.
  • Treatment & Management: Improve spacing and airflow, avoid drought stress and excess nitrogen, remove affected leaves, and treat with sulphur, potassium bicarbonate or horticultural oil.
• Downy mildew (Peronospora spp.):
  • Symptoms: Pale, yellow or angular blotches on the upper leaf with grey-purple mould beneath in cool, wet, humid weather.
  • Treatment & Management: Space and ventilate plants, water at the base in the morning, remove infected leaves, and use a copper fungicide under heavy pressure.
• Anemone smut (Urocystis anemones):
  • Symptoms: Small blister-like swellings that burst to release masses of black powdery spores on leaves and stems, distorting growth. It systemically infects some anemones, deforming leaves and flower stems.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy infected plants and leaves, avoid replanting anemones in the same infected soil, and use clean stock.
• Rust (Tranzschelia / Puccinia spp.):
  • Symptoms: Yellow spots above and orange-to-brown powdery pustules beneath the leaves; anemone is an alternate host for some stone-fruit rusts.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove infected leaves, improve airflow, avoid overhead watering, keep susceptible anemones away from plum/prunus, and use a fungicide if severe.
• Leaf spot & Botrytis (Colletotrichum / Botrytis cinerea):
  • Symptoms: Brown leaf spots, and grey mould on flowers and buds in damp, cool, still air, especially on tuberous types.
  • Treatment & Management: Improve airflow, remove spent flowers and infected leaves, keep foliage dry, and use a fungicide only if pressure is high.
• Viruses (Cucumber mosaic / tomato spotted wilt & others):
  • Symptoms: Mottling, ring spots, distortion and ‘colour break’, spread by aphids and thrips and not curable.
  • Treatment & Management: Buy clean stock, control aphids and thrips, disinfect tools, and rogue out infected plants.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Tuber rot from wet, cold soil:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Tubers planted in cold, waterlogged ground rot before or soon after sprouting.
  • Correction Strategy: Plant into warm, free-draining soil, avoid waterlogging, and start difficult sites by pre-sprouting corms in trays before planting out.
• Poor / erratic emergence:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Dry, hard-stored corms or unsuitable planting depth give patchy, weak emergence.
  • Correction Strategy: Soak corms briefly before planting, plant at the right shallow depth, and keep soil evenly moist during establishment.
• Frost damage to flowers:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Early flowers and buds are nipped by late frosts.
  • Correction Strategy: Provide a sheltered spot and light cover during frost, and mulch tubers in cold areas.
• Chlorosis / poor drainage:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Yellowing and weak growth in heavy, wet or alkaline soil.
  • Correction Strategy: Improve drainage and organic matter, and correct extreme pH; feed lightly for steady growth.

What Helps – Products & Tools

Cultural control leads: sharp drainage, airflow, sanitation and morning watering prevent most trouble. Keep iron-phosphate slug bait and copper/grit barriers for molluscs; insecticidal soap or neem for aphids; Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for caterpillars; beneficial nematodes for weevil grubs; and, for disease, sulphur or potassium bicarbonate for powdery mildew and a copper fungicide for downy mildew and rust. Spray oils in the evening to protect pollinators and follow the label.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Anemone coronaria (poppy anemone)?

Anemone coronaria, commonly known as poppy anemone, is a tuberous perennial grown for its vivid poppy-like flowers with dark central bosses, and it’s one of the most popular spring cut flowers. It’s a deciduous perennial geophyte reaching 10-50 cm (4-20 in), grown from a tuber, grown as an ornamental and cut flower for its vivid, poppy-like blooms.

How do you plant Anemone coronaria tubers (bulbs)?

Soak the tubers for about a day before planting, then set them a few centimetres deep with the growing point uppermost, in a hole dug a little wider than the root ball in loosened, free-draining soil. Plant in spring in cold-winter regions, or in autumn where winters are mild.

What care does Anemone coronaria need?

It grows best in full sun to part shade, in loamy, well-draining soil that stays on the drier side in summer. Water moderately while it’s in leaf and flower, letting the surface dry between waterings, and keep the tuber dry during its summer dormancy – in the coldest and hottest zones, lift and store it while resting.

Is Anemone coronaria toxic to pets or children?

Yes. It’s toxic – it contains protoanemonin (buttercup family) and the sap can irritate skin, so it’s best kept away from small children and pets.

Can Anemone coronaria be grown in pots?

Yes – it takes very well to pots, which lets you soak and start the tubers and lift them for dormancy. Use a medium pot with several soaked tubers planted together in a free-draining mix, in full sun to light shade, watering moderately in growth while keeping it drier through dormancy.

When does Anemone coronaria bloom, and how do you keep it flowering longer?

It blooms from late winter to early spring, and from soaked corms it flowers in roughly three months, within its first season. To prolong flowering, deadhead through the bloom season by cutting spent flower stems down to the foliage clump.