Apricot tree

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

The apricot is a full-sun, deciduous tree of 3-15 m (10-45 ft), so the grower correctly marks it as not a houseplant – it needs winter cold to rest and strong sun to fruit and flower. The grower confirms it can be grown in a container – practical while the tree is young or on a dwarfing rootstock.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A large tub or half-barrel (40-60 L+); a container home only while young or on a dwarf rootstock
• Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant – too large, needs full sun and a cold winter rest
• Best Spot: Full sun, outdoors
• Soil & Drainage: Rich, free-draining mix
• Watering in Pots: Average to generous while in leaf; pots dry fast

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Not a houseplant: The grower marks it unsuitable indoors. It needs a period of winter cold to go dormant and strong outdoor sun to flower and fruit – conditions a room cannot provide.
• Why grow it potted then: A container simply lets you grow a tree where there is no open ground, or keep a dwarf form on a patio – it still lives outdoors year-round.
• Safety: Like all stone-fruit relatives, the seeds/pits and wilted leaves contain natural cyanide compounds – keep prunings and fallen pits away from pets and grazing animals.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & wind: Give it the sunniest, most open spot; stake young trees and shelter them from strong wind, and remember walls and paving reflect heat that dries pots quickly.
• Weight & drainage: A fruiting tree in a full tub is heavy – set it on castors or its final position, and make sure drainage runoff has somewhere to go on a balcony.
• Cold rest: Leave the pot outdoors through the cold season so the tree gets the winter chill it needs to flower and fruit.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: Use the largest practical tub with strong drainage holes; skip a standing-water saucer to avoid root rot. Terracotta breathes and dries out faster, while glazed or plastic holds moisture longer.
• Potting mix: A well-aerated, organic-rich mix – peat or coir blended with perlite or vermiculite – keeps roots oxygenated in a pot.
• Feeding: Potted plants need feeding a little more often than those in open ground, as regular watering leaches nutrients from the mix. Feed through the growing season for good flowering and fruit.
• Repotting & pruning: Refresh the mix and root-prune every couple of years, and prune the top to keep a compact, productive shape in scale with the tub.
• Long term: Containers suit it only while young or on a dwarfing rootstock; a standard tree ultimately needs the open ground.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Spring — often among the earliest stone fruit to flower, before or as the leaves appear
• Time to First Bloom: Grafted trees usually begin flowering within about two to four years
• Flower Appearance: White-to-cream or pink flowers with five petals
• Edibility: Not eaten — apricot is grown for its fruit, and the flowers are ornamental only

Detailed Blooming Overview

Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) is one of the first stone fruits to bloom, opening in early spring, often before the leaves are fully out. The simple five-petalled flowers range from white and cream to soft pink and cover the bare branches, which makes the tree lovely but also leaves the early bloom exposed to late frosts.

Flower Characteristics

• Five-petalled flowers in white, cream or pink.
• Open early, largely ahead of the foliage.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Thinning: In the first years, thinning the bloom (and young fruit) helps the tree settle into steady cropping.
• Pollination: Bee-pollinated.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Brown rot blossom blight: In wet spring weather the fungus Monilinia can brown and collapse open blossoms. Clearing away mummified fruit and infected twigs, and a preventative fungicide at bloom (such as a sulfur-based spray), helps keep it in check.