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When a stem is too thick for pruning shears, you need more leverage or a blade with teeth. Loppers and pruning saws handle the branches shears can’t — but choosing the wrong one crushes wood, tires your arms or leaves ragged cuts that invite disease. This guide explains where each tool fits, and how to choose. For soft stems, deadheading and light pruning, see our best pruning shears guide — this page is for thicker branches.
Quick recommendations
Shears vs loppers vs pruning saws
| Tool | Job | Roughly suits |
|---|---|---|
| Pruning shears (secateurs) | soft stems, deadheading, small twigs | thin stems — see the shears guide |
| Loppers | long handles + leverage for medium branches, and reach into shrubs | finger-to-thumb-thick branches |
| Pruning saw | teeth cut branches too thick for any bladed cutter | thick branches and limbs |
Rule of thumb: if you can’t close shears through it, reach for loppers; if the loppers stall or the branch is thicker than the tool’s rated capacity, switch to a saw. Always work within the manufacturer’s stated cutting diameter — forcing a cut beyond a tool’s rating damages the tool and the plant.
Choosing loppers: bypass vs anvil
- Bypass loppers — two curved blades slice past each other like scissors for a clean, close cut. Best for living wood, where a clean cut heals well. The default choice for most pruning.
- Anvil loppers — a straight blade closes onto a flat “anvil”. They crush as they cut, so they suit dead, dry or woody stems; on live wood they can bruise the branch.
- Ratchet loppers — a ratchet mechanism multiplies force for tough branches with less effort; good for weaker grip strength.
- Telescopic / extendable loppers — extending handles add reach and leverage for higher or deeper branches; heavier and less precise, so extend only as much as you need.
Recommended loppers
Choosing a pruning saw: folding vs fixed
- Folding pruning saws — blade folds into the handle; compact, safe to carry, ideal for occasional use and tight spaces.
- Fixed-blade pruning saws — sturdier for frequent or heavier work; usually carried in a sheath.
- Pole / telescopic saws — reach high limbs from the ground; check the reach and weight, and mind what’s overhead for safety.
- Most pruning saws cut on the pull stroke and have coarse teeth designed for green wood — don’t substitute a carpentry saw, which clogs.
Recommended pruning saws
Ergonomics
These tools work your arms, shoulders and hands. Look for cushioned or non-slip grips, shock-absorbing bumpers on loppers, a weight you can control at full reach, and a size matched to your hands and strength. Ratchet or geared mechanisms reduce effort on tough cuts. Lighter is better only if the tool still cuts cleanly within its rating.
Blade maintenance
- Keep blades sharp — a sharp blade cuts cleanly with less force; a blunt one crushes and tears.
- Wipe blades dry after use and apply a little oil to prevent rust; sap can be removed with an appropriate solvent.
- Replaceable blades/parts extend a good tool’s life — a point in favour of quality brands.
Cleaning & sanitation
As with all cutting tools, disinfect blades between plants (and especially between a diseased plant and a healthy one) to avoid spreading disease — wipe with isopropyl alcohol or a suitable disinfectant. This matters most on live wood and fruit trees.
Safety
- Keep both hands and your body clear of the cutting path; branches can spring.
- Wear gloves and eye protection, especially with saws and overhead pole tools.
- Never use a pole tool near power lines; be aware of falling branches.
- Fold or sheath saws when not in use.
How to choose
- Mostly shrubs & roses? Good bypass loppers plus your shears cover most jobs.
- Fruit trees / thicker limbs? Add a folding pruning saw; consider a pole saw for height.
- Cutting mostly deadwood? Anvil loppers are efficient.
- Limited grip strength? Ratchet loppers reduce effort.
- Always match the tool’s rated capacity to the branches you actually cut, and buy the best blade you can — it’s the part that matters.
Related guides
- All garden tools
- Best pruning shears — for soft stems & deadheading
- Best garden hand tools
- pruning flowering shrubs
- how to prune fruit trees
Quick questions
Loppers or a pruning saw? Loppers for branches your shears can’t close on; a saw once a branch is too thick for the loppers’ rated capacity.
Bypass or anvil loppers? Bypass for clean cuts on living wood (most pruning); anvil for dead, dry stems.
Do I need a special saw? Yes — a pruning saw’s coarse teeth are made for green wood and usually cut on the pull stroke; a carpentry saw clogs.
See also: how to prune fruit trees.