Plant Profile & Key Characteristics
Overview: Mesembryanthemum criniflorum (Livingstone daisy) is a fast-growing succulent subshrub only 10–20 cm (4–8 in) tall, grown as an ornamental groundcover. It is prized for its fleshy foliage and flat, many-petalled, daisy-like flowers.
Quick Specifications
| Specification | Attribute |
|---|---|
| Plant Type / Life Cycle | Perennial (evergreen) or grown as an annual |
| Foliage Type | Evergreen succulent |
| Mature Size | 10–20 cm (4–8 in) tall, spreading |
| Growth Rate | Fast |
| Root System | Fibrous and shallow (spreading groundcover) |
| Hardiness | USDA zones 8+ as perennial, 2–8 as annual |
Growth Form & Structure
- Height & Spread: Low and mat-forming, 10–20 cm (4–8 in) tall and spreading outward; well suited to containers, rockeries, edging and hanging baskets.
- Growth Habit & Form: Creeping succulent subshrub / groundcover with fleshy stems.
- Lifespan & Maturity: Fast to establish and flower within its first season.
Anatomy & Physical Features
- Leaves & Foliage: Fleshy, linear-to-oval green leaves.
- Flower Characteristics: Flat, many-petalled flowers in purple, yellow, pink, peach, orange, red, white or mixed colours, blooming from winter through summer. (See the Bloom accordion for detail.)
Primary Uses & Landscape Value
- Functional & Ornamental Roles: Drought-tolerant ornamental groundcover for hot, dry, sunny sites, rockeries, edging, containers and coastal gardens.
Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering
Overview: Fig marigolds (ice plants) are heat-loving succulents that flourish in full sun and hot, dry conditions, forming a fast, sprawling groundcover. They demand light, sharply drained, sandy soil and very little water, storing moisture in their fleshy leaves.
Quick Care Requirements
| Requirement | Ideal Condition |
|---|---|
| Planting Season | Spring in cold climates; autumn, winter or spring in warm climates |
| Growth Rate | Fast |
| Soil Type | Light, sandy, sharply draining |
| Water Need | Low; let the soil dry out between waterings |
Planting & Establishment
- Best Planting Season: Plant in spring in cold climates; in warm climates it can go in during autumn, winter or spring while temperatures are mild.
- How to Plant:
- Hole Preparation: Loosen a hole slightly wider than the root ball in gritty, sandy soil.
- Soil Amendments: Work in coarse sand or grit to guarantee fast drainage; it does not need rich soil and dislikes heavy, water-retentive ground.
- Planting Depth: Set the root ball at soil level and avoid burying the fleshy stem, which can rot if kept wet.
- Growth Speed & Expectations: Fast, spreading groundcover reaching about 10-20 cm tall.
Soil, Watering & Drainage Care
- Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Needs a free-draining sandy or cactus/succulent mix; poor drainage quickly leads to root rot.
- Watering Schedule & Technique:
- Young / Newly Planted: Water lightly and occasionally until the roots take hold.
- Established: Water sparingly, letting the soil dry fully between waterings; it is drought-tolerant once established.
- Seasonal Adjustments: A little more in peak summer heat, and almost none through winter.
Climate, Light & Hardiness
Mesembryanthemum criniflorum thrives in a hot, sunny climate with full sun to light half shade, preferring dry, well-drained conditions typical of mediterranean, desert, and subtropical gardens. It is frost-tender as a mature perennial and is commonly grown as a fast-cycling annual well outside its perennial hardiness range.
Quick Climate Specifications
| Climate Zones | Mediterranean, desert, subtropical, temperate, and tropical climates (sunny, dry-summer conditions preferred) |
|---|---|
| USDA Hardiness Zones | Reliably perennial in zone 8 and warmer; commonly grown as a self-sowing annual from about zone 2 upward |
| Optimal Temp Range | Approximately 18–29°C (64–84°F) |
| Cold Damage Begins | Approximately 5°C (41°F) |
| Approx. Survival Minimum | Approximately 0°C (32°F), briefly, for established perennial plants |
| Frost Tolerance | Very Low |
| Light Conditions | Full Sun to Half Shade |
| Wind Tolerance | High |
| Salt / Coastal Tolerance | High |
Sunlight & Light Exposure
Optimal Light Setup
Full sun produces the most compact growth, brightest foliage color, and heaviest flowering; light half shade is tolerated but growth becomes looser and flowering lighter.
Direct Sun Requirement
Several hours of direct sun daily are needed for a dense, colorful mat and good flower production; deep shade results in sparse, leggy growth with little bloom.
Shade & Heat Management
Tolerates intense heat and reflected sun from sandy or rocky ground without difficulty; a little afternoon shade in the hottest desert gardens can help prevent leaf scorch but is not essential.
Best Exposure / Orientation
South- or west-facing beds, sunny banks, and rockeries with sharp drainage suit it best.
Temperature Extremes & Hardiness
USDA Hardiness & Regional Limits
Reliably perennial only where winters stay mild (zone 8 and warmer); in colder regions it is grown as a heat-loving annual that self-sows freely over a long, warm growing season.
Cold Damage & Winter Protection
Foliage blackens and collapses at the first hard frost; because winter protection outdoors is impractical for this low groundcover, gardeners in cold climates simply replant it as an annual each year.
Frost Sensitivity
Very frost-sensitive - even a light frost typically damages the foliage.
Extreme Heat Tolerance
Excellent; once established it thrives through prolonged summer heat and full desert sun, provided the soil drains sharply.
Wind, Humidity & Microclimate
Humidity Preferences
Prefers dry air and performs best under arid to mediterranean humidity levels.
Dry-Air Tolerance
Very high; a true succulent well adapted to arid atmospheres.
Wind Tolerance
High; its low, mat-forming habit resists wind damage and suits exposed slopes.
Coastal / Salt Tolerance
High; well suited to seaside gardens and salt-spray exposure.
Rainfall & Seasonal Moisture
Adapted to climates with a distinct dry season; prolonged wet, humid weather combined with poor drainage encourages rot rather than benefiting the plant.
Microclimate Recommendations
Best on slopes, banks, or raised beds with fast-draining, sandy soil in full sun; avoid low spots that stay damp after rain.
Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors
Mesembryanthemum criniflorum (Mesembryanthemum criniflorum) is a low, sun-loving succulent grown for its bright, daisy-like flowers. It is not a houseplant – the grower marks it as unsuitable indoors – but it shines in pots, troughs and window boxes on a sunny balcony or patio, and only a very bright, sunny windowsill will keep it going indoors.
Quick Details
- Container Size: A wide, shallow pot, trough or window box suits its low, spreading habit; good drainage matters more than depth
- Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant; only a very sunny, direct-sun windowsill will do
- Best Spot: Full sun (it tolerates a little light shade)
- Soil & Drainage: Sandy, gritty, free-draining mix; drainage holes essential
- Watering in Pots: Sparingly – let it dry between waterings; it hates wet feet
Indoors & On the Windowsill
- Houseplant limits: The grower rates it as not suited to growing indoors – it needs strong, direct sun that most rooms cannot provide, and in low light it sprawls and stops flowering.
- Windowsill growing: The one indoor option is a very sunny, south-facing sill with hours of direct sun; even then it performs best outside.
- Cold protection: As a tender, warm-season sun-lover it will not survive frost, so it is grown fresh each season or moved somewhere frost-free and very bright over winter.
On a Balcony or Patio
- Light, heat & wind: Give it the sunniest, warmest spot – a hot, wall-backed balcony is perfect, as it thrives on reflected heat. Shallow pots and troughs dry fast, so check moisture in hot weather, but always let the surface dry before watering again.
- Practicalities: Wide, shallow containers with open drainage suit its carpeting habit; tip out any saucer water after rain.
Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care
- Pot & drainage: A shallow, wide pot or trough with strong drainage holes and no standing-water saucer. Terracotta suits it well, breathing and drying quickly.
- Potting mix: A sandy, gritty, free-draining mix; add extra grit or perlite for sharp drainage.
- Feeding: Very little is needed – flowers come freely in lean soil, so an occasional weak feed in the growing season is plenty.
- Fresh each season: Grown as a fast, warm-season plant, it usually just needs fresh, free-draining mix at each planting rather than long-term repotting.
Growing this plant in a greenhouse
A greenhouse can give mesembryanthemum criniflorum frost protection and cold protection.
Greenhouse at a glance
| Greenhouse suitability | Conditional - depends on your climate |
|---|---|
| Main benefits | frost protection, cold protection |
| Outdoor protection advisable below | about 5°C |
| Maintain greenhouse minimum | around 5°C for active growth |
| Suitable types | unheated greenhouse, polycarbonate greenhouse |
| Heating | Heating is optional - useful mainly for winter growing in cold areas. |
Related greenhouse guides
- Greenhouses: How to Choose the Right Greenhouse
- Polycarbonate Greenhouses: What to Look for Before Buying
- Greenhouse Climate Control: Temperature, Ventilation and Humidity
Fertilizing & Feeding
A very light feeder: a dilute, low-nitrogen feeding through the warm active growing season is plenty, and it is best to withhold fertilizer while the plant is resting.
Quick Fertilizing Specs
| Feeding Level | Light feeder |
|---|---|
| Main Nutrient Priority | A dilute, low-nitrogen feed; succulents need very little |
| Best Feeding Period | During the warm active growing season |
| Organic Options | A little compost or worm castings blended into a gritty, fast-draining mix |
| Reduce/Stop Feeding | Withhold fertilizer through the cool-season rest or overwintering |
| Micronutrients | Rarely needed; correct only a confirmed deficiency |
| Soil pH | Tolerates a wide range; sharp drainage in a gritty mix matters more |
Feeding by Growth Stage
Warm-season active growth
Support steady, firm growth through the warm months without forcing soft, weak stems.
| Nutrient direction | A dilute, low-nitrogen complete fertilizer; the plant stores its own reserves and needs only a gentle boost. |
|---|---|
| Timing | During the warm active growing season. |
| Frequency | A light, dilute feeding while the plant is actively growing is usually enough. |
| Fertilizer types | A dilute, low-nitrogen complete fertilizer, A little compost or worm castings blended into a gritty mix |
| Precautions | Feed sparingly; overfeeding produces soft, floppy, stretched growth and can leave fertilizer salts in the fast-draining mix. |
Cool-season dormancy or rest
Let the plant rest through cool weather or low light without pushing tender growth.
| Nutrient direction | None – withhold fertilizer while the plant is resting. |
|---|---|
| Timing | During cool weather, winter, or a low-light indoor rest. |
| Frequency | No feeding at this stage; resume only when active growth returns. |
| Fertilizer types | No feeding at this stage; do not fertilize until active growth resumes. |
| Precautions | Do not fertilize a resting succulent; feeding now wastes nutrients and risks salt injury to the roots. |
Nutrient Deficiency Signs & Corrections
Older, lower leaves fade to pale green or uniform yellow and new growth slows.
| Possible causes | low available nitrogen in an exhausted potting mix, nitrogen leaching from a fast-draining, gritty medium, long spell without any feeding |
|---|---|
| Appears first on | older, lower leaves |
| What to check | how long since the mix was refreshed or fed, overall vigor and color of new growth, drainage and how quickly the mix flushes through |
| Possible correction | Apply a dilute, low-nitrogen complete fertilizer during active growth and refresh tired mix with a little compost. |
Leaf tips and margins brown or scorch and roots look damaged despite careful watering.
| Possible causes | fertilizer salt buildup in the fast-draining mix, overfeeding or feeding too strong a solution, sparse watering that concentrates salts around the roots |
|---|---|
| Appears first on | leaf tips and margins |
| What to check | recent feeding strength and how often it was applied, any white salt crust on soil or pot, drainage and watering thoroughness |
| Possible correction | Ease off feeding, water the mix thoroughly to flush accumulated salts, then return to lighter, more dilute feeding. |
Newest leaves yellow between the veins while the veins themselves stay green.
| Possible causes | reduced iron uptake in alkaline soil or hard water, waterlogged or poorly drained roots limiting uptake, cold, wet mix slowing root activity |
|---|---|
| Appears first on | youngest leaves at the growing tips |
| What to check | drainage and whether the mix stays wet, irrigation water hardness or alkalinity, root health and soil temperature |
| Possible correction | Improve drainage and correct soil or water alkalinity; if it persists, apply a chelated iron product per its label. |
Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance
Mesembryanthemum criniflorum, the Livingstone daisy, is a fast-growing, low, spreading leaf succulent grown as colourful bedding ground cover; in practice it is almost always treated as a summer annual, even in the zone-8+ conditions where the species can behave as a short-lived perennial. So “pruning” here means deadheading and light shaping through the flowering season — documented across the whole growing period — rather than any long-term framework maintenance, and the planting is simply cleared or left to self-seed once the display finishes.
Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs
| Pruning Tolerance | Moderate — tolerates trimming, but grown as a one-season display |
| Primary Pruning Window | Ongoing through the flowering season |
| Typical Frequency | Frequent light deadheading while in bloom |
| Main Objective | Keep flowering going, tidy the mat, limit self-seeding |
| Best Tool Type | Precision snips for deadheading; hand shears for a general tidy |
| Avoid Heavy Pruning During | Peak summer heat, which already stresses this short-lived plant |
Pruning by Plant Age & Size
Newly Established
Let young plants fill in and begin flowering; no cutting needed while establishing.
Young / Formative
No formal training system for a bedding ground cover; pinching is not typically needed since it branches and spreads on its own.
Mature / Established
Deadhead spent, multi-coloured daisy flowers regularly to prolong the display, and trim back any straggly trailing growth for a neat mat.
Special Growth to Remove
Remove spent flower heads before they set seed to keep the display going and to limit self-seeding, and clear straggly or collapsing growth as the planting fades toward the end of the season.
Container & Small-Space Pruning
Grown outdoors in a planter as bedding, not indoors; deadhead and trim more frequently than an in-ground bed to keep a compact container display neat over its one-season life.
Tools
Precision snips for deadheading individual flowers, hand shears for a general seasonal tidy of the mat.
Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk
Risk level: Routine. No specific transmissible disease documented; clean tools are sufficient for this soft-tissued bedding succulent.
Cut Placement & Technique
Deadhead by snipping the spent flower stem back to the next leaf node or a healthy side-shoot; shear lightly and evenly if tidying the whole mat.
Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation
Not really applicable — grown as an annual bedding plant, it is simply cleared and replaced at season’s end rather than cut back hard for renewal.
Post-Pruning Care
Water normally after light trims; avoid extra feeding, which pushes soft growth at the expense of flowering. Watch for snails, its documented pest, especially on tender new growth after a tidy.
Common Pruning Mistakes
- Letting spent flowers go to seed and reduce the length of the bloom display.
- Over-feeding after trimming, which favours leaves over flowers.
- Expecting perennial-style renewal pruning from what is grown as a one-season bedding plant.
When NOT to Prune
Avoid heavy cutting during the most heat-stressed part of summer, which already strains this short-lived plant.
Recommended Tools (by task)
- precision_snips — the main tool, for deadheading spent flowers through the season.
- bypass_secateurs — light overall tidying of the trailing mat.
Propagation Guide
Livingstone daisy (Mesembryanthemum criniflorum), commonly sold in mixed-color strains such as ‘Magic Carpet Mixed’, is raised almost exclusively from seed as a bedding annual, and it germinates and self-sows readily enough to be considered invasive where conditions suit it. Seed from mixed-color strains does not come true for flower color, but growing it from seed is easy and is the standard commercial method.
Quick Propagation Specs
| Best Propagation Method | Seed |
| Propagation Difficulty | Easy |
| Seed True-to-Type | Variable (mixed color strains segregate) |
| Best Propagation Season | Spring in cold climates; autumn, winter or spring in warm climates |
| Seed Germination Time | Often within one to a few weeks |
| Germination Temperature | Warm, roughly 18–24°C (64–75°F) |
| Seed Sowing Depth | Surface-sow, barely covered |
Growing from Seed
Seed Handling & Viability
Seed stores reasonably well cool and dry. This species self-sows freely enough to be regarded as invasive in mild climates, so remove spent flower heads where naturalizing isn’t wanted.
Sowing Season
Spring in cold climates, or autumn through spring where winters are mild.
Sowing Depth & Orientation
Surface-sow on a well-drained, sandy mix; do not bury the fine seed.
Germination Conditions
Warm, bright and well-drained; keep evenly moist without waterlogging.
Germination Time
Usually prompt, often within one to a few weeks, in keeping with this fast-growing annual.
Seedling Care
Grow on in full sun to half shade with sparing watering. As with many mat-forming ice plant relatives, seedlings resent heavy root disturbance, so raising them in cells or plugs and transplanting carefully with minimal root breakage improves establishment.
Bloom & Flower Guide
Quick Details
- Bloom Season: Winter, spring and summer
- Time to First Bloom: Usually in the first year, often within months of sowing in a sunny spot
- Flower Appearance: Flat, many-petalled, daisy-like flowers in a bright mix – purple, yellow, pink, peach, orange, red, white or blended
- Edibility: Ornamental only
Detailed Blooming Overview
Grown as the Livingstone daisy, this iceplant is loved for a brilliant, near-fluorescent carpet of flowers across winter, spring and summer, depending on climate. The flat, many-petalled blooms come in a dazzling mix of colours, often with a paler eye, and open flat in full sun, closing when overcast or at night. A sunny, well-drained site rewards you with an intense show.
Flower Characteristics
- Flat, many-petalled, daisy-like flowers with a satiny sheen.
- Colours purple, yellow, pink, peach, orange, red, white or more than one colour, often with a contrasting centre.
- Open in bright sun, close in dull weather and at night.
Bloom Care & Thinning
- Encouraging bloom: Full sun and sharp drainage bring the heaviest flowering; the plant blooms poorly in shade or rich, wet soil.
- Managing the bloom: Removing spent flowers keeps the display coming through the season.
Bloom Health & Protection
- Aphids often gather on the soft buds and new growth; a strong jet of water or a little insecticidal soap keeps them in check.
- In cool, damp spells gray mould (Botrytis) can spot the open flowers – improving airflow and removing faded blooms helps prevent it.
Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting
Overview: Livingstone daisy (Mesembryanthemum criniflorum) is a fleshy-leaved ice plant (Aizoaceae) and, like most succulents, is essentially free of serious insect pests – its overwhelming vulnerability is rot from wet soil and overwatering. Aphids, mealybugs and slugs are the only regular nuisances. Manage it as a sun-loving succulent: sharp drainage, minimal water and plenty of light. Better known as the Livingstone daisy (syn. Dorotheanthus bellidiformis), a low, brilliantly-flowered annual – the same succulent, rot-prone, slug-nibbled profile applies.
Quick Troubleshooting Overview
| Issue / Pest | Main Symptom | Primary Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Overwatering / rot | Soft, blackening, collapsing stems | Gritty soil, full sun, water sparingly |
| Slugs / snails | Chewed fleshy leaves, slime | Hand-pick, grit/copper, iron-phosphate |
| Aphids / mealybugs | Colonies & honeydew on new growth | Soap spray, evening oil, beneficials |
| Etiolation | Pale, stretched, few flowers | Give maximum direct sun |
| Frost | Mushy blackened growth | Grow as annual / protect from frost |
Common Pests & Management
- Aphids (Aphis / Myzus spp.):
- Symptoms: Small green or black colonies clustered on flower buds, stems and soft new growth, with sticky honeydew and some distortion.
- Prevention & Control: Rinse off with a gentle water spray; encourage lady beetles and hoverflies; insecticidal soap for persistent colonies – use oils sparingly and in the cool of evening on succulent foliage.
- Mealybugs (Pseudococcus / Rhizoecus spp.):
- Symptoms: White cottony tufts in leaf axils and among the crown, and root mealybugs as a white powder on the roots of pot plants; sticky honeydew and stunted, off-colour growth.
- Prevention & Control: Wash foliar colonies off with a soap spray or dab with alcohol on a cotton bud; for root mealybug, drench or repot into fresh gritty mix and clean the roots; release mealybug destroyer beetles under glass.
- Slugs & Snails (Deroceras / Helix spp.):
- Symptoms: Ragged holes, chewed fleshy leaves and slime trails, worst in damp weather and on young or ground-hugging growth (snails are the source’s main note).
- Prevention & Control: Hand-pick after dark; ring plants with grit or copper; keep the surface dry and mulch-free at the crown; use iron-phosphate baits, which are safe around pets and wildlife, in wet spells.
- Scale Insects (Coccus / Diaspididae):
- Symptoms: Brown or grey bumps on stems and fleshy leaves with honeydew and sooty mould.
- Prevention & Control: Scrape off light infestations; encourage parasitic wasps; a light horticultural oil spray applied in the evening for heavier loads.
- Spider Mites (Tetranychus spp.):
- Symptoms: Fine stippling, dulling and light webbing on plants kept hot, dry and airless, especially under glass.
- Prevention & Control: Increase airflow and hose down; avoid dusty, stagnant conditions; a soap or oil spray if they build up.
Diseases & Fungal Issues
- Root, Crown & Stem Rot (Pythium / Phytophthora / Fusarium spp.):
- Symptoms: Soft, blackening, collapsing stems at the base, mushy roots and sudden death – by far the main killer of these succulents, caused by wet, poorly drained soil or overwatering.
- Treatment & Management: Grow in sharply drained, gritty soil in full sun; water sparingly and let the soil dry between waterings; never let plants sit wet, especially in cool weather; remove and destroy rotted plants and take cuttings from healthy tips to restart.
- Grey Mould (Botrytis cinerea):
- Symptoms: Fuzzy grey mould on flowers and soft growth in cool, damp, still conditions.
- Treatment & Management: Improve airflow, remove faded flowers and dead leaves, and avoid overhead watering; keep foliage dry.
- Fungal Leaf Spot:
- Symptoms: Dark spots or blotches on the fleshy leaves in prolonged humidity.
- Treatment & Management: Increase airflow and light and reduce leaf wetness; remove affected leaves; rarely needs a fungicide if watering is corrected.
Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems
- Overwatering & Wet-Soil Rot:
- Cause & Symptoms: The commonest cause of failure – soft, translucent, collapsing growth from too much water or heavy, cold, wet soil.
- Correction Strategy: Treat as a true succulent: gritty free-draining soil, full sun, minimal water, and a dry rest in cool weather; err firmly on the dry side.
- Etiolation / Stretching in Low Light:
- Cause & Symptoms: Pale, stretched, floppy growth and few flowers in shade or indoors, with the fleshy leaves losing colour.
- Correction Strategy: Give the maximum possible sun – these plants flower and stay compact only in bright, direct light; move indoor plants to the sunniest spot.
- Frost Damage:
- Cause & Symptoms: Fleshy foliage turns mushy and blackens after frost; most species are tender annuals or half-hardy.
- Correction Strategy: Grow as summer annuals in cold climates or protect from frost; many self-sow to return the next season.
- Self-Seeding / Spread:
- Cause & Symptoms: Free self-seeding and spreading mats can colonise ground and crowd out neighbours (the source flags them as invasive).
- Correction Strategy: Remove spent flower heads before seed sheds where spread is unwanted, and pull stray seedlings while young.
What Helps – Products & Tools
These succulents need very little: insecticidal soap for aphids and mealybugs, a light horticultural oil (applied in the evening) for scale and mite, iron-phosphate slug bait, and – most importantly – cultural care: gritty free-draining soil, full sun and a sparing hand with water to prevent the rots that are the real danger.