GrowPlants is reader-supported. When you buy through links on this page we may earn an affiliate commission, at no extra cost to you. Product suggestions are pulled from live listings — always check the current label, price and reviews before buying.
Most orchids are epiphytes that in the wild grow clinging to bark, not sitting in a pot. Mounting recreates that: the plant is fixed to a slab of cork or wood with a pad of moss, so roots get maximum air and a natural wet-then-dry cycle. This guide covers the mounting supplies you need, how to choose them, and how mounting differs from potting. For growing orchids in a pot, see our orchid potting mix & bark guide instead — this page is about mounted, slab-grown culture.
Quick recommendations
What you need to mount an orchid
- A mount — cork bark slab, hardwood, or a tree-fern/wood plaque.
- A moss pad — sphagnum moss placed between plant and mount to hold a little moisture at the roots (used as a pad here, not as a pot medium).
- Ties — fishing line, plastic-coated wire, or soft plant ties to hold the plant until it attaches.
- A hanger — wire or hook so the mount can hang and drain freely.
Mount materials at a glance
| Mount | Pros | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cork bark | rot-resistant, long-lasting, natural look | the popular default; irregular surface roots love |
| Hardwood slab / branch | very durable, heavy-duty | choose rot-resistant wood; heavier to hang |
| Tree-fern / wood plaque | holds moisture well | good for humidity-loving miniatures |
| Sphagnum moss (pad) | buffers moisture at the roots | use a thin pad; too much stays wet and rots roots |
How to choose
- Humidity you can provide: mounts dry fast — only mount if you can water often or keep humidity up (see our orchid humidity guide).
- Orchid type: vandas, many bulbophyllums and miniatures thrive mounted; large-rooted phalaenopsis are usually easier potted.
- Display: cork looks natural on a wall or in a case; plaques hang neatly in a growing cabinet.
How to mount (basics)
- Lay a thin pad of moist sphagnum on the mount, set the orchid’s roots against it, and tie the plant firmly but gently in place.
- Point the newest growth upward and outward so fresh roots run onto the mount.
- Keep humidity high and water more often than a potted plant — mounts dry within hours.
- Once new roots grip the mount (a few months), the ties can be loosened or removed.
Common mistakes
- Too much moss — a thick wad stays soggy and rots roots; a thin pad is enough.
- Mounting without the humidity to match — the plant desiccates.
- Loose tying — if the plant wobbles, roots never attach.
- Using rot-prone wood — it breaks down and harbours pests.
Related orchid guides
- All orchid supplies
- Orchid potting mix & bark — for potted (not mounted) culture
- Orchid humidity guide — essential for mounts
- Orchid clips, stakes & supports and repotting tools
Quick questions
Is mounting better than potting? It is more natural and gives superb root aeration, but it dries fast and demands high humidity and frequent watering. Pot if you can’t provide that.
What moss do I use on a mount? A thin pad of sphagnum moss between roots and mount — just enough to hold slight moisture, not a thick wad.
Which orchids suit mounting? Vandas, many miniatures and bulbophyllums love it; large phalaenopsis are usually simpler in a pot.