Rumex alpinus

Plant Profile & Key Characteristics

Overview: Monk’s rhubarb, a robust evergreen herbaceous perennial 0.5-1.5 m (20-60 in) tall with very large edible leaves. It is grown as a leafy vegetable and, with its bold foliage, as an ornamental.

Quick Specifications

Specification	Attribute
Plant Type / Life Cycle	Herbaceous perennial
Foliage Type	Evergreen
Mature Size	0.5-1.5 m (20-60 in) tall
Growth Rate	Moderate to fast
Root System	Creeping rhizomes
Toxicity	Leaves edible but high in oxalic acid — eat in moderation
Hardiness	USDA zones 5-8

Growth Form & Structure

• Height & Spread: Bold leafy clumps 0.5-1.5 m (20-60 in) tall spreading by rhizomes; also grows in a container.
• Growth Habit & Form: Clump- to colony-forming herbaceous plant with large basal leaves and tall flower stems; spreads by rhizomes and can be invasive.
• Lifespan & Maturity: Long-lived perennial, quick to establish and leaves harvestable year-round.

Anatomy & Physical Features

• Leaves & Foliage: Very large green leaves, round to ovate, 15-25 cm or more long.
• Flower Characteristics: Small pink-purple bell-to-triangular flowers in tall inflorescences.

Primary Uses & Landscape Value

• Edible Uses: Large leaves stuffed and cooked as a leaf vegetable.
• Functional & Ornamental Roles: Grown as a leafy vegetable and as a bold-foliage ornamental.

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Rumex alpinus (Rumex alpinus), also known as Monk’s rhubarb or Alpine dock, is a hardy, herbaceous dock grown for its edible or ornamental leaves, thriving in full sun to part shade across hardiness zones 5-8. It grows in moist, rich soil with moderate to high water and establishes quickly once settled.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Warm season – spring through summer
Growth Rate	Moderate to Fast
Soil Type	Moist, rich soil
Water Need	moderate to high water needs

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant during the growing season, from spring through summer (and into autumn in mild zones), once the soil has warmed.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole a little wider than the root ball and loosen the soil so the deep taproot can establish.
  • Soil Amendments: Work organic matter into the backfill to enrich the soil, as this high-elevation plant likes cool, moisture-retentive ground, then firm the plant in gently.
  • Planting Depth: Set the plant at the depth it grew in its pot, keeping the crown at the soil surface.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: A moderate to fast grower; it fills out quickly and can spread or self-seed vigorously, so manage it to keep it in bounds.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Provide moist, rich soil that drains adequately so the crown does not rot; docks are adaptable and grow readily in containers with good drainage.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Keep the soil evenly moist after planting so the young plant establishes without checking.
  • Established: Once established, water regularly to keep the leaves tender; moderate to high water.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Increase watering through summer heat to prevent bitter, tough leaves, and reduce it in cool or wet weather.

Climate, Light & Hardiness

Monk's rhubarb is a cold-hardy alpine perennial suited to temperate climates, hardy through USDA zone 5–8. It grows in full sun to half shade and, as its high-elevation origin suggests, favors cooler conditions than lowland warm-climate crops.

Quick Climate Specifications

Climate Zones	Temperate
USDA Hardiness Zones	5–8
Frost Tolerance	High
Light Conditions	Full sun to half shade

Sunlight & Light Exposure

Optimal Light Setup

Tolerates full sun to half shade.

Temperature Extremes & Hardiness

USDA Hardiness & Regional Limits

A cold-climate, high-elevation species by origin, comfortably hardy through USDA zone 5–8; it is not suited to hot, low-elevation, or tropical climates.

Wind, Humidity & Microclimate

Rainfall & Seasonal Moisture

Its high-elevation, mountain origin and above-average water needs suggest it favors consistently cool, moist conditions over hot, dry ones.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Rumex alpinus is a leafy, sun-to-part-shade plant, not a houseplant – it grows readily in a pot or planter outdoors, while indoors it lacks the light to do well.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A medium pot or planter with free drainage (the grower confirms container growing but gives no set size)
• Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant; a bright spot outdoors suits it far better
• Best Spot: Full sun to half shade
• Soil & Drainage: Aerated, organic-rich mix that stays evenly moist yet drains freely
• Watering in Pots: Keep steadily moist – these leafy plants dislike drying out, but the pot must still drain.

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant limits: The grower lists it as not an indoor houseplant – it grows leafier and healthier with real outdoor light.
• Windowsill option: A very bright sill can keep a small plant ticking over for cut-and-come-again leaves, but outdoors is better.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light and shelter: A sunny to lightly shaded balcony spot is ideal; in strong heat a little afternoon shade keeps the leaves tender. Containers dry fast, so check moisture often.
• Practicalities: Watch the weight of a watered pot and manage drainage runoff with a tray or pot feet.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot and drainage: Choose a pot with strong drainage holes; if you stand it on a saucer, empty the saucer promptly so the roots never sit in water. Terracotta breathes and dries faster, while glazed or plastic pots hold moisture longer.
• Potting mix: Use a well-aerated, organic-rich mix – a good potting soil, or peat/coir blended with perlite or vermiculite for drainage and air.
• Watering: Water regularly to keep the mix evenly moist – pots dry out far faster than open ground, so check often in heat – but never leave it standing wet.
• Feeding: Potted plants run through their soil faster because nutrients leach out with every watering, so feed a little more often than you would in open ground.
• Repotting: Every couple of years, refresh part of the potting mix; for perennials you can lightly trim the roots and top growth at the same time to keep things in balance.

Fertilizing & Feeding

Monk’s rhubarb is a vigorous, evergreen perennial grown for continuous leaf harvest; light, well-timed feeding keeps foliage productive without adding fuel to a plant that is already considered aggressive and spreading.

Quick Fertilizing Specs

Feeding Level	Light feeder
Main Nutrient Priority	Balanced feeding with an emphasis on nitrogen to support ongoing leaf production for harvest
Best Feeding Period	Through the main growing season when leaf production is strongest
Organic Options	Compost or well-rotted organic matter worked into the soil around the crown
Soil pH	Adaptable to a range of garden soils without special pH adjustment
Reduce/Stop Feeding	Ease off feeding when growth slows in cooler weather, then resume light feeding as new growth picks up
Micronutrients	Rarely an issue in average garden soil; address only if a specific deficiency appears

Feeding by Growth Stage

Getting established after planting

Help newly planted or divided Monk’s rhubarb build roots and settle in before regular leaf harvest begins.

Nutrient direction	A light, balanced feeding supports early root and leaf development without overwhelming a young planting.
Timing	At planting and through the first stretch of active growth.
Frequency	A single light feeding is usually enough to help new plantings settle in before regular feeding begins.
Fertilizer types	A balanced complete fertilizer applied lightly, Compost or well-rotted organic matter worked into the planting area
Precautions	Keep new plantings on the lean side; this is already an assertive, spreading plant and rich soil can accelerate that tendency.

Sustained leaf growth for ongoing harvest

Support continuous, healthy leaf production through the plant’s long harvest window.

Nutrient direction	Light, nitrogen-leaning feeding keeps leaves productive for harvest, since this plant grows in cooler, higher-elevation conditions where growth is naturally more measured.
Timing	Through the main growing season while leaves are being regularly harvested.
Frequency	Feed sparingly through the growing season; light, periodic feeding supports steady leaf renewal without excess growth.
Fertilizer types	A balanced to nitrogen-leaning complete fertilizer used sparingly, A light top-dressing of compost during active growth
Precautions	Heavy feeding is unnecessary and can encourage this plant to spread more aggressively into surrounding beds.

Nutrient Deficiency Signs & Corrections

Older leaves turn pale green to yellow and new leaf production for harvest slows.

Possible causes	low available soil nitrogen, depleted soil from repeated leaf harvest without replenishment, nitrogen leaching in wetter, higher-water conditions
Appears first on	older, lower leaves
What to check	recent feeding and harvest history, soil organic matter level, drainage and watering pattern
Possible correction	Work in compost or apply a balanced to nitrogen-leaning fertilizer at a light rate, then watch new leaf growth for improvement.

New leaves emerge pale yellow while the veins stay green.

Possible causes	high soil pH limiting iron availability, waterlogged or compacted soil restricting root uptake, container growing in an alkaline potting mix
Appears first on	newest growth at the shoot tips
What to check	soil pH, drainage around the roots, whether the plant is container-grown in an alkaline mix
Possible correction	Improve drainage, work toward a more neutral soil pH, and apply a chelated iron product per its label if the pattern continues.

Leaf tips and margins brown or look scorched even though the plant is watered generously.

Possible causes	fertilizer salts building up from over-feeding, uneven watering that concentrates salts in the root zone, poor drainage around the crown
Appears first on	leaf tips and margins
What to check	recent fertilizer amounts and frequency, watering consistency, drainage around the planting
Possible correction	Ease off feeding, water thoroughly to move salts through the root zone, then return to a lighter feeding routine.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Monk’s rhubarb is a large clump-forming perennial dock grown for its big edible leaves and as a bold foliage plant; it has no woody framework, so “pruning” means ongoing leaf removal plus cutting the flower stalks. It tolerates frequent, even heavy, leaf removal at almost any time, but the single most consequential cut is removing the flowering stems before seed sets – this species is explicitly noted as invasive, and a mature plant can shed large numbers of seed if the flower spikes are left to mature. Routine leaf pruning doubles as harvest and keeps the rosette tidy nearly year-round; it does not reduce future flowering since flowering is not the point of growing this plant.

Pruning & the Edible Harvest

Harvest and pruning are largely the same act: taking tender young leaves without their petiole keeps the rosette productive, while removing old, coarse or damaged outer leaves channels the plant’s energy back into fresh growth. Cutting the flower stalks as they rise has a direct harvest benefit too – it stops the plant diverting energy into seed production and keeps leaf quality from declining once flowering begins.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	High – tolerates continual leaf removal
Primary Pruning Window	Ongoing through the growing season; heaviest cleanup in spring and after summer bloom
Typical Frequency	Leaf removal every few weeks / as harvested; flower stalks cut as they appear
Main Objective	Sustained tender-leaf production and control of self-seeding
Young Plant Priority	Let the rosette build leaf area; remove only damaged leaves
Mature Plant Priority	Remove old/yellowing outer leaves; cut flower stalks at the base before seed set
Best Tool Type	Precision snips or fingers (soft petioles)
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Depth of winter dormancy in the colder end of its zone 5–8 range, when regrowth is slow

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Allow the young plant to build a full rosette before harvesting; remove only genuinely damaged or slug-marked leaves in the first season.

Young / Formative

No structural training – this is a basal rosette, not a branching plant. Begin taking a few outer leaves once the plant has several mature leaves, always leaving the central crown intact.

Mature / Established

Ongoing removal of old, tough or damaged outer leaves; prompt removal of flower stalks at their base unless you deliberately want seed.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Pre-growth / early spring: clear any winter-tattered or dead leaves as fresh growth pushes from the crown, freeing the plant to put energy into new leaf.

Summer (bloom): cut the flowering stems at their base as they rise, before the pink-purple flower spikes set seed – the priority cut for an invasive-listed species, and it also keeps the plant producing leaf rather than seed.

Ongoing sanitary: remove old, yellowing or damaged leaves as part of routine harvest, at any point in the growing season.

Structural Pruning & Training

None – the plant is an unbranched basal rosette with no framework to train or thin.

Special Growth to Remove

Flower/seed stalks are the priority removal (invasive-species control), cut at the base before seed matures. Otherwise remove old, yellowed or damaged leaves as they appear; there are no suckers, runners or watersprouts on this plant.

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Grows well in a large pot; harvest a little more sparingly than an in-ground plant so the smaller root volume can keep up. Still cut flower stalks promptly – a containerised plant can seed into surrounding beds just as readily as one in open ground.

Tools

Precision snips or a clean pinch of the fingers for both leaf harvest and flower-stalk removal; the petioles and flowering stems are soft and never require secateurs, loppers or a saw.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine. No notable tool-transmitted disease is reported for this species; keep snips clean and sharp as general practice.

Cut Placement & Technique

Cut or pinch leaves at the base of the petiole, close to but not into the crown, so the growing point keeps producing. Cut flower stalks right at their base rather than partway up, since any remaining stub can still flower and set seed.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

Tolerated well: a tired or tattered rosette can be cut back hard to the crown, and being a perennial with a persistent rootstock it will resprout strongly, typically fastest if done in spring or right after the main summer bloom.

Post-Pruning Care

Keep the soil consistently moist after a hard cut-back – this dock naturally favours damp, humus-rich ground and regrowth slows quickly if it dries out. No extra feeding is needed simply because leaves were removed.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Leaving flower stalks to mature and set seed, which fuels this species’ documented invasiveness.
• Stripping the whole rosette repeatedly without letting it recover between harvests.
• Cutting leaves so close to the crown that the central growing point is damaged.

When NOT to Prune

Avoid heavy leaf-stripping on a young, still-establishing plant. Do not leave flower heads on the plant once seed is developing if you are trying to prevent it spreading nearby.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• precision_snips – leaf harvest and flower-stalk removal on this plant’s soft, non-woody tissue.

Propagation Guide

Rumex alpinus is most easily started from seed, which comes true to type; dividing an established clump is a possible but non-essential alternative that gives a quicker, identical plant. Both routes are straightforward, making this an Easy plant to propagate.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Seed
Alternative Methods	Division of the rootstock/clump
Propagation Difficulty	Easy
Seed True-to-Type	Yes
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes
Best Propagation Season	Spring / Summer
Seed Germination Time	Typically a few weeks, often uneven
Germination Temperature	Roughly 15–20°C (59–68°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	Shallow, lightly covering the small seed

Growing from Seed

Sowing Season

Spring or summer.

Sowing Depth & Orientation

Sow shallowly; the seed is small and should only be lightly covered.

Germination Conditions

Keep the sowing medium consistently moist at mild temperatures; the species naturally grows at high elevation and tolerates cool conditions.

Germination Time

Usually a few weeks, and can be uneven.

Seedling Care

Grow on in average to ample moisture and full sun to half shade once established.

Division, Offsets, Pups & Suckers

Established clumps can be divided in spring or summer; lift the rootstock and split it into sections that each carry roots and at least one growth point, then replant promptly. Division is not required to propagate this plant but is a fast way to get an identical, flowering-size plant, and can also help keep its spread in check, since the species is noted to be invasive.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Summer
• Time to First Bloom: Usually from its second year, once the clump is established
• Flower Appearance: Small pink-purple flowers with a bell- to triangular outline, carried in branched clusters on tall stems
• Edibility: Grown for its leaves – the flowers are not used in the kitchen

Detailed Blooming Overview

Alpine dock is grown mainly for its large, tangy leaves, and like other docks it throws up tall flowering stems in summer. The tiny flowers are wind-pollinated, and once they begin to set seed the plant pours its energy into the seed rather than fresh leaf – so many growers cut the stalks back.

Flower Characteristics

• Small pink-purple flowers with a bell- to triangular shape.
• Borne in loose, branched inflorescences on tall stems.
• Wind-pollinated and inconspicuous, shedding fine pollen freely.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Managing the bloom: Unless you want seed, remove the flowering stems as they appear to keep the plant producing tender leaves.
• Pollination: By wind rather than insects (the odd bee or fly may visit, but they play little part).

Fruit & Uses

Monk’s rhubarb is grown for its edible leaves, harvested tender and eaten cooked. Despite the common name, this is a dock (Rumex), not true rhubarb (Rheum) – here it is the leaf blade itself that is eaten, not a stalk.

Quick Edible Specs

Edible Parts	Leaves
Main Use(s)	Culinary – cooked green, stuffed leaf wraps
Eaten Raw or Cooked	Cooked
Preparation Required	Cook; pick tender young leaves and strip off the leaf stem
Harvest Season	All year
Time to First Harvest	Once the plant is established and producing full-size leaves
Storage	Best used fresh, soon after picking
Safety/Toxicity Caveat	Like other docks, leaves contain oxalic acid – cook and eat in moderate portions, especially if prone to kidney stones or gout

Leaves & Greens

Leaves are green, round to ovate, 15-25+ cm. Tender leaves are picked with the leaf stem removed, then cooked or used to wrap fillings in the style of stuffed dock or grape leaves – a traditional mountain pot-herb use behind the Monk’s rhubarb name.

Preparation, Uses & Safety

Cooking softens the texture and mellows the oxalic acid naturally present in Rumex leaves; eat in moderate amounts, particularly if you are prone to kidney stones or gout. No parts of this plant are noted as unsafe in normal cooked, moderate portions.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Alpine / Monk’s rhubarb dock (Rumex alpinus) is a hardy Rumex in the dock/sorrel family and is largely robust, but its broad leaves are a magnet for a few signature pests – above all the dock/beet leaf-miner and the metallic dock leaf beetle – plus foliar rust and downy mildew in damp weather. A tall mountain dock, robust and vigorous, sharing the genus profile with a tendency to form large weedy stands. Because the leaves are usually eaten, keep control cultural and organic: pick clean, remove damaged and mined leaves, rotate and space plants, and reserve any spray for heavy pressure.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Dock / beet leaf-miner	Pale blotchy blisters mined inside leaves	Pick and destroy mined leaves, row cover
Dock leaf beetle	Shot-holed, skeletonised leaves; shiny green beetles	Hand-pick adults and larvae, tolerate on non-crop
Aphids	Curled tips, honeydew on new growth	Water jet, beneficials, insecticidal soap
Flea beetles	Tiny shot-holes in young leaves	Row cover, keep plants vigorous
Slugs & snails	Ragged holes, slime on low leaves	Hand-pick, traps, iron-phosphate bait
Rust / downy mildew	Orange pustules or yellow-grey mould on leaves	Remove leaves, airflow, avoid wet foliage

Common Pests & Management

• Dock / beet leaf-miner (Pegomya hyoscyami / Pegomya bicolor):
  • Symptoms: Larvae tunnel between the leaf surfaces, producing pale, translucent blotchy mines that turn brown and blister; on edible sorrel and dock these ruin whole leaves, and several maggots may share one mine.
  • Prevention & Control: Pick off and destroy mined and blistered leaves as soon as they appear to remove the maggots, and clear related weeds (fat-hen, chickweed) that host the fly. A floating row cover over young leafy crops excludes the egg-laying flies; keep plants cut and cropping fresh, tender growth.
• Dock leaf beetle (Gastrophysa viridula):
  • Symptoms: Shiny metallic-green beetles and their dark, slug-like larvae chew leaves into shot-holes and skeletons, sometimes stripping whole plants; the swollen-bodied females and yellow egg clusters on leaf undersides are distinctive.
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick adults, larvae and egg clusters into soapy water, and encourage ground beetles and birds. On ornamental or wild dock, moderate feeding can be tolerated; on leafy crops, cover young plants and remove egg batches promptly rather than spraying.
• Aphids (Aphis rumicis / Brachycaudus spp.):
  • Symptoms: Dense colonies of dark or green aphids gather on shoot tips, flower stems and leaf undersides, distorting growth and leaving sticky honeydew and sooty mould; dock aphid can blacken flowering stems.
  • Prevention & Control: Blast colonies off with water, support lady beetles, lacewings and hoverflies, and remove badly infested flowering stems. Insecticidal soap clears heavy infestations on leafy crops; wash harvested leaves well.
• Flea beetles (Chaetocnema / Phyllotreta spp.):
  • Symptoms: Tiny jumping beetles pepper young leaves with small round shot-holes, worst on seedlings in warm dry spells; heavy feeding checks growth of tender crops.
  • Prevention & Control: Protect seedlings with fine row cover, keep plants well watered and growing fast to outgrow damage, and clear weedy hosts. Yellow sticky traps and, if needed, a light organic dust help on severe outbreaks.
• Slugs and snails (Deroceras / Cornu spp.):
  • Symptoms: Irregular ragged holes chewed in low, tender leaves with slime trails, worst in damp, shady, mulched sites and on seedlings.
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick after dark, remove damp hiding places, and use beer or shelter traps; a grit barrier or iron-phosphate bait protects leafy plants. Encourage natural predators such as ground beetles, frogs and birds.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Rust (Puccinia phragmitis / Uromyces rumicis):
  • Symptoms: Bright orange to reddish-brown powdery pustules dot the leaf undersides and stems, with yellow flecks above; heavy rust yellows and withers the foliage, spoiling leafy crops.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy rusted leaves promptly, space plants and improve airflow, and avoid wetting foliage. Crop rotation and clearing wild dock reservoirs reduce carry-over; sulphur gives some protection on ornamentals, but on edible leaves rely on hygiene and picking clean.
• Downy mildew (Peronospora rumicis):
  • Symptoms: Pale yellow blotches on the upper leaf with a grey-purple downy growth beneath in cool, wet conditions; affected leaves distort, yellow and die.
  • Treatment & Management: Improve drainage and airflow, avoid overhead watering and dense stands, and remove infected leaves. Rotate crops and use wider spacing; copper can help on ornamentals in persistently wet weather.
• Leaf spot (Ramularia / Ascochyta spp.):
  • Symptoms: Round brown or grey spots, sometimes with darker margins, form on the leaves and enlarge in warm humid weather, causing yellowing and leaf loss.
  • Treatment & Management: Pick off spotted leaves, water at the base, and keep the planting open; clear debris at season’s end. Good hygiene usually controls it without fungicide on leafy crops.
• White smut / anther smut (minor) (Microbotryum / Ustilago spp.):
  • Symptoms: Occasional swollen, powdery-black or white pustular deformities on stems, leaves or flowers, more a curiosity than a threat on cultivated sorrel and dock.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy affected shoots, clear infected debris, and avoid saving seed from diseased plants; no other action is usually needed.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Bolting and bitter, tough leaves:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Long days, heat and drought push sorrel and dock into flowering stalks; leaves then turn tough, bitter and unpalatable, and self-seeding increases.
  • Correction Strategy: Harvest young leaves regularly, remove flower stalks early to prolong tender leaf production, keep the soil evenly moist, and provide light shade in hot climates; sow in the cooler part of the season for the best leaves.
• Oxalic-acid sourness / over-strong flavour:
  • Cause & Symptoms: The natural oxalic acid that gives sorrel its lemony tang becomes harsh and mouth-drying in old, stressed or over-mature leaves.
  • Correction Strategy: Pick young, well-watered leaves for the mildest flavour, keep plants unstressed, and cut back old growth to force fresh leaves; eat sour-leaved Rumex in moderation.
• Aggressive self-seeding / weediness:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Docks in particular seed prolifically and form deep taproots, escaping into surrounding ground and becoming hard to remove.
  • Correction Strategy: Cut off seed heads before they ripen, remove unwanted plants including the taproot while young, and contain in beds; site vigorous docks where their spread is acceptable.
• Iron chlorosis on alkaline soil:
  • Cause & Symptoms: New leaves yellow between green veins where iron is locked up in very alkaline or waterlogged soil.
  • Correction Strategy: Improve drainage, add organic matter, and lower pH gradually with sulphur or acidic compost; a chelated-iron feed corrects acute cases.

What Helps – Products & Tools

For Rumex the practical kit is fine floating row cover and yellow sticky traps against leaf-miner and flea beetles; insecticidal soap for heavy aphid outbreaks; iron-phosphate bait and grit for slugs and snails; and, on ornamental (non-edible) plants only, sulphur or copper for rust and downy mildew. Because the leaves are usually eaten, favour picking, hygiene and barriers over sprays, and wash all harvested leaves.