Monstera deliciosa

Swiss cheese plant

Monstera deliciosa, the Swiss cheese plant, is a climbing tropical vine grown for dramatic hole-riddled leaves and, in maturity, edible pineapple-banana-flavored fruit, hugely popular as a houseplant.

Evergreen Perennial plant Vine Colored leaves Edible plants

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Light Shade Bright indirect light indoors
Water Moderate–High
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Temperature & Hardiness Temp & Hardiness
20–30°C68–86°F Preferred
10°C50°F Protect below
USDA 10+ Hardiness

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GrowPlants Video Guide

Original video by GrowPlants

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Monstera deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa grow and care – vine epiphyte of the genus Monstera also known as Swiss cheese plant or Cheese plant, Monstera deliciosa perennial evergreen plant, used for the edible fruits, mostly used as ornamental for the leaves, flowers and fruits, can grow in tropic, subtropical or mediterranean climate or indoor as houseplant and growing in hardiness zone 10b+ and with the right overwinter care in hardiness zone 10a.

Leaves color green or can be variegated green with white or yellow, size be 25-100+ cm, the leaves are in heart shape with holes this is the reason that the Monstera deliciosa is Swiss cheese plant,

Flower color white yellowish, the size 10-30 cm, the inside looks like beehive.

Monstera deliciosa edible fruits

Fruits edible color green, looks like oval beehive and cover with hexagon scale, the fruit start to be ready when the fruit poke out from the cover, the fruit mostly not ripening in the same time, when the fruit eaten unripen is astringent, fruit tastes like jackfruit and pineapple banana.

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Monstera deliciosa for sale – Seeds or Plants to Buy

How to grow Monstera deliciosa growing condition and care:

How to grow:
Moist, warm climate, trellising if you want the plants as vine, rich soil, organic matter and better to add humus, compost, prefer temperature 15c +, in hardiness zone 10a need to grow it indoor until the leaves arrive to 50cm (20 inches).

How to care:
Frost temperature need to protect the plant in the winter with mulch or even to cover the plant when it’s young, when the plant mature the plant become more cold tolerance.

What is the best way to start growing?
Plant / Seed / Vegetative Reproduction air layering or cutting

How to propagation:
Air layering need to take air root and cover it with soil, keep the soil moist and cut it when there are new roots, cutting need to take stems at least with 2 leaves, better 3 and air roots and grow it in the same condition as fully mature plant

Is it necessary to graft or use vegetative reproduction?
Yes, propagation by cutting it’s easier

Difficulties or problems when growing:
Sensitive to cold and full sun, leaves burn in full sun

Planting season:
Spring to autumn in hardiness zone 10b-11a, in tropical climate planting can be all year, after its stop to be cold more than 20C should be much more and in warmer climate all year

How to plant:
Dig a hole as deep as the current root ball plus extra 30-70%, put in the hole organic matter, humus and dried leaves and mix it with some soil, put the plant and loos little bit the root ball above the hole, plant and cover it and don’t push the soil too much strong but not too much lightly because it won’t be stable, after this put a pile of mulch to keep moist on soil, put water, for the next two weeks put every day (better in the morning), better to take care that the plant will be stable, and if not support it with bamboo or a stick that it won’t fall.

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Pests and diseases:
Brown edge in the leaves

Pruning season:
Before the winter

How to prune:
Old leaves, prune for design

Size of the plant:
1-20 m, 3-65 feet

Growth speed in optimal condition:
Medium growing / Slow growing

Water requirement:
Average amount of water / Big amount of water, better to spray on it in order to get humidity on the air roots

Light conditions in optimal condition for growing:
Full Shade to almost full shade, the leaves burn in the sun, but filter the sun with the net or to grow it under trees give good result

Is it possible to grow indoor as houseplant?
Yes, it is a very popular indoor plant but bearing fruits indoor might be challenging

Indoor care requirements:
To cover the air roots, keep high humidity and switch the soil every few years.

Growing is also possible in a planter /flowerpot / containers:
Yes, when grow in container need to choose the desirable container if it’s small plant it directly if it’s a big container bigger than 30%-50% than the root ball, every time that the plant arrive to full capacity need to switch to bigger until arrives to desirable size, better to switch the soil once in few years soil lose the viability over time and it’s efficient of care for the plant, when it’s not possible to switch all the soil just part of the soil in the side of the roots (don’t afraid from root cutting), it will bear fruits also in 10gallon (40 liter) container (but bigger is better), drainage it’s important and need to make holes and to use peat soil and maybe some lava grit in the bottom or something like that, put a bottom for the container and when water the plant let it fill the bottom but also need to dry in the same day, be aware that will be also air roots that need to take care when grow outdoor a lot of time the roots absorb humidity from the air or rooting in the ground, so in a container growing try to cover the air root, when the plant start to climb need support of trellising.

What size pot:
Size of the of the pot need to be bigger than the root ball and better to grow for ornamental enough 20L and bigger is better, won’t bear fruits in those condition and will stuck in the same size, for fruits minimum is 40L but need a lot of fertilizer

Blooming information

Bloom season:
Late spring-summer

General information about the flower:
Big white-yellowish flower, the inside look like beehive

Pollination is done by:
Bees and other pollinator

Edible Fruits


Fruit harvest season:
Mid – End of the summer to autumn and early winter, the fruits will be edible mostly few month after the flowers but might be edible only one year and few months after blooming

Fruits pests or diseases:
Dry weather cause rotten in the fruit

What can be done with big quantities of Monstera deliciosa fruits?
Eat fresh, juice, jam

Work requirements on the fruit:
Warm, moist, collect in the right moment or put net under the fruits net

How long does it take for a Monstera deliciosa plant to bear fruit?
3 years from mature plant in hardiness zone 12+, 4-5 years in hardiness zone 10b-11, 5-6 year in hardiness zone 10a, from seeds might take above 7 years in tropical

Ripening of fruit:
Fruit not ripening in the same time, for ripening in the same time need to do ripening

How to eat:
Need to eat the fruits when the peal fall possible to eat, just the part that the peal fall

Vegetative Reproduction

How to make Vegetative Reproduction?
Cutting / twig with air layering
The best time for vegetative reproduction:
Spring, when there is no fear from cold weather

How much time does it take to grow roots in vegetative reproduction?
Depend on condition of the air layer can be few weeks until few month

What is the treatment for vegetative reproduction in Monstera deliciosa?
Moist, warm weather, shadow

How to grow Monstera deliciosa from seeds

How to harvest seeds
Harvesting collect

Sowing requirement:
Soak the seeds 24 in warm water (can be more need that the seeds swell), better to scratch the seeds cover it help to germinate

Saving seeds and care until sowing:
Warm and dark location

Sowing season:
Better to use fresh seeds, possible all year and better spring to summer

How to plant:
Better to plant in mixed soil that keep the soil moist, vermiculite and peat soil

Planting spacing:
Different pots, 5*5cm (2*2 inches)

Depth of Sowing:
0.5cm (0.25 inch)

Conditions for seeds germination:
Moist soil, high humidity

Watering requires for Seeds:
Average amount of water / Big amount of water

Germination time:
1-2 months

Condition of seedling:
High humidity above 25C

Scientific name:

Monstera deliciosa

Alternative names: Swiss cheese plant, Fruit salad plant, Fruit salad tree, Split leaf philodendron, Ceriman, Monster fruit, Monsterio delicio, Monstereo, Mexican breadfruit, Windowleaf, Balazo, Penglai banana

How to grow Monstera deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa planting seaosn

Monstera deliciosa flower

Monstera deliciosa blooming season

Harvesting Monstera deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa care and gorw

Monstera deliciosa care

Monstera deliciosa fruits

Monstera deliciosa

Growing Monstera deliciosa plant

Monstera deliciosa leaves

Categories

Blooming Seasons
  • Spring flowers
  • Summer flowers
Edible Parts
  • Edible Fruit
Culinary uses
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Eaten raw
  • Jams
  • Juice
Flower colors
  • White flower
  • Yellow flower
Climate
  • Mediterranean Climate
  • Subtropics Climate
  • Tropics Climate
Harvest Season
  • Summer Harvest
Leaf color
  • White leaves
Ornamental parts
  • Ornamental flower
  • Ornamental leaves
  • Ornamental plant
Plant growing speed
  • Slow growing plants
Plant life-form
  • Evergreen
  • Perennial plant
  • Vine
Plant Uses
  • Colored leaves
  • Edible plants
  • Indoor plants
  • Ornamental plants
Planting Season
  • Autumn Planting
  • Spring Planting
  • Summer planting
  • Winter planting
Plants sun exposure
  • Shade Plants
Watering plants
  • Big amount of water
  • Regularly water
Hardiness zone
  • Hardiness zone 10
  • Hardiness zone 11
  • Hardiness zone 12
  • Hardiness zone 13

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant) is a shade-loving climber for warm, humid conditions (prefers 15°C and up; hardiness zone 10b+ or indoors). It wants rich, organic, moisture-retentive but well-draining soil kept evenly moist, with high humidity for its aerial roots.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement Ideal Condition
Planting Season Spring to autumn; year-round in the tropics
Growth Rate Moderate to Slow
Soil Type Rich, organic, moisture-retentive yet well-draining
Water Need Moderate to High – keep evenly moist, mist for humidity

Planting & Establishment

  • Best Planting Season: Plant from spring to autumn in zones 10b–11a (year-round in the tropics), once temperatures stay reliably above about 20°C.
  • How to Plant:
    • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole as deep as the root ball plus an extra 30–70%, and provide a trellis or support for it to climb.
    • Soil Amendments: Mix organic matter, humus and dried leaves into the soil; the plant thrives on rich, compost-heavy ground.
    • Planting Depth: Set the root collar at soil level and firm gently – not too hard, not too loose – then mulch and water in.
  • Growth Speed & Expectations: Moderate to slow, especially when young, then quicker once established in warmth and humidity.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

  • Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Use a rich, airy, well-draining mix; good drainage prevents root rot, and covering or supporting the aerial roots helps the plant thrive.
  • Watering Schedule & Technique:
    • Young / Newly Planted: Keep newly planted Monstera evenly moist as it settles, misting to raise humidity.
    • Established: Water deeply and let the top of the soil dry slightly before watering again; mist regularly for the aerial roots.
    • Seasonal Adjustments: Reduce watering in cool winter weather and protect young plants from frost with mulch or a cover.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Monstera is one of the most popular of all houseplants, grown indoors for its huge split leaves – the grower confirms it, noting only that getting it to fruit indoors is difficult. In a pot it also thrives in warm, bright shade on a patio.

Quick Details

  • Container Size: Around 20 L as an ornamental; 40 L (10 gal) minimum if you want fruit, and bigger is better
  • Indoor Suitability: Yes – a top-tier houseplant
  • Best Spot: Full or near-full shade – bright indirect light; the leaves burn in direct sun
  • Soil & Drainage: Peat/coir with perlite and some lava grit in the base; strong drainage
  • Watering in Pots: Average to plenty; mist the aerial roots for humidity

Indoors & On the Windowsill

  • A top houseplant: Very popular indoors; give bright, indirect light (direct sun burns the leaves) and a moss pole or trellis to climb as it matures.
  • Grower’s indoor care: Keep humidity high, cover and mist the aerial roots, and refresh the soil every few years. Fruiting indoors is difficult – grow it for the foliage.
  • Safety: Sap contains calcium oxalate – keep away from children and pets (and the fruit is only edible when fully ripe).

On a Balcony or Patio

  • Shade & support: Best in warm, bright shade; shelter from direct sun and wind, and give it something to climb.
  • Water & humidity: Keep it evenly moist and mist the aerial roots; make sure the pot drains and does not sit in water.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

  • Pot size: For a small plant, pot it directly; for a bigger one use a container about 30-50% larger than the root ball, and pot up each time it fills. Around 20 L suits it as an ornamental; it will only fruit in 40 L or more with heavy feeding.
  • Drainage & mix: Make good drainage holes and use a peat or coir mix with some lava grit in the base; sit it on a saucer and, when you water, let it fill but let it dry the same day.
  • Air roots & support: Cover and mist the aerial roots, and add a support once it starts to climb.

Grower’s Container Tip

  • Refresh the soil without a full repot: When the plant is large and a full soil change is hard, the grower removes just part of the mix at the sides of the root ball and cuts back those roots – keeping the soil fresh without disturbing the whole plant.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

  • Bloom Season: Late spring to summer
  • Time to First Bloom: Only on mature plants, and rarely as a houseplant
  • Flower Appearance: A large creamy-white spathe (10-30 cm) around a pale spadix with a beehive-like surface of tiny flowers
  • Edibility: The flower is not eaten; the ripe fruit is edible, but that does not make the bloom edible, and unripe parts contain calcium oxalate

Detailed Blooming Overview

A mature Monstera produces a striking creamy-white spathe cradling a spadix that carries the tiny true flowers, most often in late spring and summer. In its native range it is pollinated by bees; it rarely flowers as a houseplant.

Flower Characteristics

  • Large creamy-white spathe, 10-30 cm.
  • Pale spadix with a beehive-like surface.

Bloom Care & Thinning

  • Pollination: By bees and other insects.
  • Managing the bloom: If left, the spadix slowly develops into the fruit; keep it in place if you want fruit to form.
  • Safety: The plant sap contains calcium oxalate – the flower is not for eating.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Monstera are tough tropical aroids grown mostly as houseplants, and their problems are overwhelmingly cultural rather than pest-driven: sap-sucking mites, mealybugs and scale in dry indoor air, and root rot, yellowing and brown edges from watering and humidity mistakes. Correct light, humidity and watering solve most issues before any spray is needed.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest Main Symptom Primary Solution
Spider mites Fine stippling, webbing on undersides in dry air Raise humidity, rinse, insecticidal soap or oil
Mealybugs White cottony fluff in leaf joints, honeydew Alcohol swab, wash, horticultural oil
Scale Brown bumps on stems and midribs, sticky residue Scrape off, horticultural oil
Fungus gnats Small flies around soil, larvae in wet mix Let soil dry, sticky traps, BTI drench
Root rot Yellowing, mushy stems, wet sour mix Reduce watering, repot into airy mix
Brown crispy edges Dry brown leaf margins Raise humidity, steady watering

Common Pests & Management

  • Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae):
    • Symptoms: Fine pale stippling that dulls the leaf, faint webbing on undersides and along veins, and a dusty bronze cast in dry, warm indoor air; a very common Monstera pest.
    • Prevention & Control: Raise humidity, rinse or shower the foliage regularly, and wipe undersides. Insecticidal soap or light horticultural oil in the evening, repeated every 5-7 days, clears them; keep leaves dust-free.
  • Mealybugs (Pseudococcus / Planococcus spp.):
    • Symptoms: White cottony tufts tucked into leaf axils, on new growth and along stems, with sticky honeydew and sooty mold; growth slows.
    • Prevention & Control: Isolate the plant, dab each cluster with alcohol on a swab, wash the foliage, and follow with horticultural oil; repeat weekly and inspect unfurling leaves and aerial roots.
  • Scale insects (Coccus / Saissetia spp.):
    • Symptoms: Brown, waxy limpet-like bumps on stems, petioles and leaf midribs that do not brush off easily, with honeydew and sooty mold.
    • Prevention & Control: Scrape off with a fingernail or soft brush, then apply horticultural oil to smother the rest, treating stems and undersides; repeat every couple of weeks.
  • Thrips (Frankliniella / Thrips spp.):
    • Symptoms: Silvery-bronze scarring and tiny black specks on leaves, with distorted new growth; increasingly common on houseplants.
    • Prevention & Control: Isolate, use blue sticky traps, wipe leaves, and treat with spinosad or insecticidal soap; repeat to catch successive generations.
  • Fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.):
    • Symptoms: Small dark flies drifting around the pot and larvae in the top of a constantly moist mix; larvae can nibble fine roots of seedlings.
    • Prevention & Control: Let the top of the mix dry between waterings, use yellow sticky traps for adults, and drench with Bti (mosquito-bit) product for larvae; a layer of grit on the surface deters egg-laying.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

  • Root rot (Pythium / Phytophthora / Rhizoctonia):
    • Symptoms: Yellowing, wilting despite wet soil, blackened mushy roots and stem base, and a sour smell; the classic result of overwatering or a heavy, airless mix.
    • Treatment & Management: Water only when the top few centimeters dry, use a chunky, free-draining aroid mix and a pot with drainage, and empty saucers. Trim rotted roots and repot; a biological or copper drench can help early cases.
  • Leaf spot / anthracnose (Colletotrichum / Xanthomonas spp.):
    • Symptoms: Brown or black spots, sometimes water-soaked with yellow halos (bacterial) or with tan centers (fungal), spreading in humid, wet-leaf conditions.
    • Treatment & Management: Remove affected leaves, avoid wetting foliage and misting late in the day, and improve airflow; a copper fungicide checks spread and sterilize tools between cuts.
  • Southern blight / stem rot (Sclerotium rolfsii):
    • Symptoms: Soft rotting at the stem base with white fungal threads and tiny tan pellets in warm, wet, crowded conditions.
    • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy affected plants and surrounding mix, improve drainage and airflow, and avoid mounding wet media against stems.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

  • Yellowing leaves (overwatering):
    • Cause & Symptoms: Constantly soggy mix suffocates roots, yellowing lower leaves; the commonest Monstera complaint.
    • Correction Strategy: Let the top of the mix dry before watering, use a chunky mix and a draining pot, and empty the saucer; correct before roots rot.
  • Brown, crispy leaf edges:
    • Cause & Symptoms: Low humidity, underwatering, or salt and fertilizer buildup dries and browns leaf margins.
    • Correction Strategy: Raise humidity, water thoroughly and evenly, flush the mix occasionally to leach salts, and keep away from heat vents and dry drafts.
  • Small leaves without splits or holes:
    • Cause & Symptoms: Immaturity, low light or lack of support limits the famous fenestration and aerial-root climbing.
    • Correction Strategy: Give bright indirect light and a moss pole or support; fenestration develops as the plant matures in good light.
  • Edema (corky bumps):
    • Cause & Symptoms: Overwatering in low light and humidity causes cells to burst, leaving corky spots on undersides.
    • Correction Strategy: Water more evenly, improve light and airflow, and avoid soggy conditions; damage is cosmetic and stops with corrected care.

What Helps — Products & Tools

Care first, sprays second with Monstera. Keep insecticidal soap and light horticultural (neem) oil for mites, mealybugs and scale, blue or yellow sticky traps for thrips and gnats, a Bti drench for fungus-gnat larvae, and a copper fungicide only for leaf spot or root/stem rot. A chunky aroid mix, a moss pole and a moisture meter prevent far more problems than any pesticide.

Growing help & problem-solving