Norfolk island pine

Plant Profile & Key Characteristics

Overview: Norfolk Island pine is a tall evergreen conifer that can reach 20-60 m outdoors, with symmetrical tiers of horizontal branches. It is grown mainly as an ornamental, shade tree, bonsai and houseplant, and produces edible nuts.

Quick Specifications

Specification	Attribute
Plant Type / Life Cycle	Perennial (evergreen conifer)
Foliage Type	Evergreen
Mature Size	20-60 m (60-180 ft)
Growth Rate	Slow to Moderate
Hardiness	USDA zones 9b-11

Growth Form & Structure

• Height & Spread: 20-60 m (60-180 ft) outdoors; kept much smaller and slow as a potted houseplant, though not otherwise a container plant.
• Growth Habit & Form: Symmetrical conical conifer with evenly spaced tiers of horizontal branches.
• Lifespan & Maturity: Very long-lived; nuts appear only after 20-40 years.

Anatomy & Physical Features

• Leaves & Foliage: Green, awl-shaped needle leaves arranged in rosette-like clusters at branch tips.
• Flower Characteristics: Small yellow male and female cones, sometimes on the same tree, wind-pollinated (see the Bloom accordion).
• Fruit Profile: Edible nuts in a cone, yellow-cream with a brown shell, borne in some years (see the Fruit accordion).

Primary Uses & Landscape Value

• Edible Uses: Nuts eaten raw, roasted or made into paste.
• Functional & Ornamental Roles: Grown as an ornamental and shade tree, as bonsai, and as an indoor specimen (often a living Christmas tree).

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Norfolk Island pine is a large subtropical conifer that grows in well-draining, sandy-loam soil in sun to part shade. It needs warmth (above 0°C), plenty of room and even, moderate to high moisture.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Spring through autumn (winter in zones 10b–11)
Growth Rate	Slow to Moderate
Soil Type	Well-draining, sandy-loam
Water Need	Moderate to High (keep evenly moist)

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant in spring, summer or autumn (winter is also possible in zones 10b–11).
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole about 50% wider than the root ball, allowing plenty of surrounding space for a large tree.
  • Soil Amendments: Mix in some organic matter along with sand or grit to keep drainage free.
  • Planting Depth: Set the root collar at soil level and firm gently.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: Slow to moderate, but ultimately a very tall tree, so plan for its eventual size.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Well-draining sandy-loam keeps the roots healthy; avoid heavy, waterlogged ground.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Keep the soil evenly moist while the tree establishes.
  • Established: Water deeply and regularly, keeping the root zone moist without letting it dry out fully.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Less water in cool winter weather, more in warm, dry spells.

Climate, Light & Hardiness

Norfolk island pine is a large tropical-to-subtropical conifer suited to tropical, Mediterranean, and subtropical climates, growing well in full sun to half shade. It has limited cold tolerance, generally needing temperatures to stay above about 0°C (32°F).

Quick Climate Specifications

Climate Zones	Tropical, Mediterranean, or subtropical climates
USDA Hardiness Zones	9b–11
Approx. Survival Minimum	Site data indicates it generally needs temperatures above approximately 0°C (32°F)
Frost Tolerance	Low
Light Conditions	Full sun or half shade

Sunlight & Light Exposure

Optimal Light Setup

Grows well in full sun to half shade, given adequate space for its large mature size.

Temperature Extremes & Hardiness

USDA Hardiness & Regional Limits

Reliable outdoors from zone 9b and warmer; it is a warm-climate species not suited to areas with regular freezes.

Cold Damage & Winter Protection

Site guidance indicates it generally needs temperatures to stay above roughly 0°C (32°F) to avoid cold damage.

Frost Sensitivity

Frost-sensitive; avoid planting where freezing temperatures occur.

Wind, Humidity & Microclimate

Rainfall & Seasonal Moisture

Prefers consistent moisture through the growing season; site guidance calls for average to generous watering.

Microclimate Recommendations

Needs ample open space to reach its large mature size; a warm, frost-free site with reliable moisture suits it best.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

The grower does not treat Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) as a houseplant, and it is not suited to long-term pots – it is famously kept indoors while young, yet a huge tree at maturity. A young plant will sit happily in a large tub on a patio for a few years, but it eventually needs the open ground.

Quick Details

• Container Size: Large tub while young only – not a long-term pot plant
• Indoor Suitability: Popular indoor plant while young, but ultimately far too large
• Best Spot: Full sun to half shade, outdoors
• Soil & Drainage: Well-aerated, free-draining mix
• Watering in Pots: Average to generous – do not let it dry out fully

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant reality: Young Norfolk Island pines are among the best-known indoor conifers and take a bright room well while small; the grower still marks it as not a true houseplant because in time it becomes a very large tree that outgrows any room or pot.
• Best indoor spot: The brightest position you have, with steady moisture and a little humidity; turn it now and then so it grows evenly.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & wind: Give it the sunniest, airiest spot. Pots on a balcony or patio dry fast – walls, railings and paving reflect heat – so check moisture often and water more in warm, windy spells. Remember a full pot is heavy and sheds run-off when watered.
• While young only: A large tub works for the first few years; move it into the ground before it becomes root-bound and top-heavy.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: A large, stable, deep container. Use a pot with strong drainage holes and skip a standing-water saucer so the roots never sit wet – that is the fastest route to root rot. Terracotta breathes and dries faster, while glazed or plastic pots hold moisture longer.
• Potting mix: Fill with a well-aerated, organic mix – a quality potting mix, or peat/coir loosened with perlite or vermiculite.
• Watering in pots: Average to generous – do not let it dry out fully; pots dry faster than open ground.
• Feeding: Potted plants need feeding a little more often than those in the ground, as regular watering steadily leaches nutrients away – feed lightly through the growing season.
• Repotting: Refresh the mix and pot up about every couple of years, lightly trimming roots and top growth to keep it in balance.

For light, humidity, and why lost lower branches never grow back, see our full Norfolk Island Pine indoor care guide.

Fertilizing & Feeding

A light feeder overall: young trees benefit from modest, even balanced feeding to support symmetrical growth, while established trees need only occasional feeding.

Quick Fertilizing Specs

Feeding Level	Light feeder
Main Nutrient Priority	Balanced feeding, applied evenly to support symmetrical branching
Best Feeding Period	The warm growing season
Organic Options	Compost worked into the planting area
Reduce/Stop Feeding	Taper off once the tree is established and growing steadily
Micronutrients	Usually unnecessary; correct only a diagnosed issue
Soil pH	Tolerates a wide range; consistent moisture and drainage matter more than pH

Feeding by Growth Stage

Establishment after planting

Help a young Norfolk Island pine establish a strong root system and develop its characteristic symmetrical, tiered branching.

Nutrient direction	A balanced, moderate fertilizer supports steady early growth without forcing lopsided or overly soft branching.
Timing	During the first growing seasons after planting, while the tree is filling out its form.
Frequency	A light feeding as growth resumes in the warm season is usually enough for a young tree.
Fertilizer types	A balanced, general-purpose fertilizer for trees, Compost worked into the planting area
Precautions	Keep feeding modest and even on all sides of the tree; uneven feeding or light exposure can encourage the lopsided branching this species is prone to.

Established maintenance

Maintain healthy, evenly tiered growth on an established tree with minimal routine feeding.

Nutrient direction	Established trees generally need only occasional light, balanced feeding to stay healthy.
Timing	In the warm growing season, mainly if foliage looks pale or growth has clearly slowed.
Frequency	An occasional light feeding at most; a well-sited mature tree often needs very little.
Fertilizer types	A balanced, general-purpose fertilizer, used sparingly, A light compost topdressing rather than a synthetic feed
Precautions	This is a large, long-lived tree grown mainly for its form: prioritize steady, even watering and sun exposure over heavy feeding, which does more to correct color problems than to accelerate desirable growth.

Nutrient Deficiency Signs & Corrections

Older, lower branches fade to pale green or yellow-green and overall growth slows.

Possible causes	low soil nitrogen, poor or sandy soil, insufficient water during the growing season reducing nutrient uptake
Appears first on	older, lower branches
What to check	feeding history, soil type and organic matter, watering consistency during the growing season
Possible correction	Apply a balanced fertilizer and ensure watering is adequate and consistent, since this species prefers steady moisture.

New growth at branch tips yellows while older foliage further back stays green.

Possible causes	alkaline soil limiting iron availability, waterlogged or poorly drained soil, root stress from drought or recent disturbance
Appears first on	newest growth at branch tips
What to check	soil pH, drainage and recent watering pattern, any recent root disturbance
Possible correction	Correct drainage and pH first; apply a chelated iron product per its label if yellowing continues.

The tree’s normally symmetrical, tiered branching becomes uneven, with one side noticeably sparser or shorter than the rest.

Possible causes	uneven light exposure favoring growth on one side, wind or physical damage to branches on one side, poor overall vigor from nutrient or water stress making an existing imbalance more visible
Appears first on	one side of the canopy compared to the rest
What to check	whether light reaches all sides of the tree evenly, recent wind, storm, or physical damage, overall vigor and color of the affected side
Possible correction	This is primarily a light and physical-damage issue rather than a nutrient one; address light exposure and any damage before adjusting feeding.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Norfolk island pine grows with a single dominant leader and tiers of whorled branches (an excurrent conifer habit), so it tolerates only light, mostly corrective pruning and does not respond well to hard cutting back. Pruning has essentially no effect on flowering or cone production (the cones are inconspicuous and slow to form regardless of pruning); its real purpose is protecting the tree’s single growing point and symmetrical tiered form while the tree is young, since a lost or damaged leader cannot be cleanly replaced later. Corrective work is safest while the tree is small and reachable; on mature trees pruning is limited to hazard and deadwood removal, often beyond safe DIY reach given an eventual height of 20–60m.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Low
Primary Pruning Window	First few years, while young and reachable
Secondary Maintenance Window	Any time, for dead/damaged branch removal only
Typical Frequency	Occasional, corrective only – not a routine annual task
Main Objective	Protect the single leader and tiered, symmetrical form
Young Plant Priority	Remove competing/co-dominant leaders early
Mature Plant Priority	Remove only dead, broken, or hazardous branches
Best Tool Type	Pruning saw or pole pruner; tall mature trees usually need a certified arborist
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Active new spring flush, when growth is soft and easily torn

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Leave alone except for any growth damaged in transplanting; the tree needs its full branch structure to build energy while young.

Young / Formative

Central-leader training: watch for and remove any competing vertical shoot that could rival the main leader, since Norfolk island pine cannot reliably regrow a true replacement leader if the original is lost – losing it permanently disfigures the tree’s form. Do not remove whole lower whorls for a “cleaner trunk” look; young trees need that foliage mass for vigor.

Mature / Established

Structural training is essentially finished; the only ongoing task is removing dead, broken, or hazardous branches, usually at height on a tree this large.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Ongoing Sanitary

Objective: safety and tidiness. Remove dead, broken, or storm-damaged branches as needed year-round (the species is evergreen with no dormant season in its 9b–11 range). What NOT to remove: the leader/growing tip, or healthy lower whorls on a young tree. Expected response: clean healing at the branch collar; no effect on the tree’s slow, decades-long cone production either way.

Structural Pruning & Training

• Leader selection: keep exactly one dominant vertical stem; remove any fork or co-dominant leader while stems are still small.
• Never top the tree for height control – topping removes the sole growing point, and lateral branches will not form a clean replacement leader, leaving a permanently flat-topped or multi-headed tree.

Special Growth to Remove

Fully dead or storm-damaged branches, removed at the branch collar. Natural shedding of shaded lower branches on older trees is normal and does not need intervention unless a branch is fully dead and a hazard.

Tools

• Precision snips or bypass secateurs – removing a competing leader shoot or small side growth on a young tree.
• Pruning saw / pole pruner – removing dead or damaged branches on a taller specimen without climbing; on large mature trees this work is often best left to a certified arborist.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine: clean, sharp tools are sufficient. No transmissible pathogen is documented for this species that would require disinfecting between cuts.

Cut Placement & Technique

Use thinning cuts (removing a branch back to its point of origin) rather than heading cuts; cut just outside the branch collar and avoid flush cuts or long stubs. Above all, never cut or damage the terminal leader bud.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

Not tolerated. Removing or damaging the leader results in permanent disfigurement (a flat top or multiple competing heads) because the tree cannot regenerate a true single replacement leader from its lateral branches. There is no rejuvenation-pruning practice for this species – protect the leader instead of relying on recovery cuts.

Post-Pruning Care

After any corrective cut, simply monitor the wound for pests; no feeding is needed for light corrective pruning. On young trees, watch that a new single leader re-establishes cleanly after removing a competitor.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Heading back or damaging the leader, causing permanent multi-headed or flat-topped regrowth.
• Topping a large specimen to control height.
• Stripping whole lower whorls from a young tree before it has the size/vigor to spare them.

When NOT to Prune

Never remove or damage the leader at any age. Avoid pruning during the soft, brittle spring growth flush. On tall mature trees, avoid any elevated work without professional equipment and training – this is a hazard issue as much as a horticultural one.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• Young tree, competing-leader/small shoot removal – precision_snips: clean small cuts that won’t crush or tear the tender leader tissue.
• Mature tree, dead/damaged branches out of reach – pole_pruner: removes hazardous deadwood from the ground without climbing a tree that can reach 20–60m.
• Mature tree, larger dead branches within reach – pruning_saw: clean collar cuts on thicker dead wood that snips or loppers can’t handle.

Pruning Troubleshooting

Problem	Possible Cause	What to Check	Corrective Action
Multiple competing vertical tips / split crown	Original leader was lost or damaged and several laterals turned upward to compete	Look for two or more upright leaders instead of one	On a young tree, select the strongest and remove the rest; on a mature tree with an established multi-head form, accept it – there is no clean fix
Dieback in the lower or interior branches	Often simple natural self-shading/self-pruning of older lower whorls	Confirm the dieback is limited to the lowest, most shaded tier rather than scattered randomly through the canopy	Remove fully dead branches at the collar for tidiness/hazard only; scattered random dieback warrants a pest/disease check instead

Propagation Guide

Norfolk Island pine is most practically grown from seed, which is the standard commercial and true-to-species method for this tree. Vegetative propagation from cuttings is possible and, per the site, can help ensure reliable nut (cone) production, but it must come from the vertical leader shoot – cuttings taken from side branches grow permanently sideways and never form a normal upright trunk, so seed is the easier, more foolproof choice for a typical grower.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Seed
Alternative Methods	Stem cuttings from the terminal (leader) shoot only
Propagation Difficulty	Easy (seed); Difficult to Specialist (cuttings, due to the leader-only requirement and slow rooting)
Seed True-to-Type	Yes – this is the species form, not a named cultivar
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes, but growth habit depends entirely on which part of the tree the cutting was taken from
Best Propagation Season	Warm months (spring through autumn, per the site’s planting season)
Seed Germination Time	Commonly several weeks to a couple of months, and can be uneven
Cutting Rooting Time	Slow, often several months
Germination Temperature	Around 21–27°C (70–81°F)

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Seed is best sown reasonably fresh, as viability in this species declines during storage.

Sowing Depth & Orientation

Lay the large, winged seed on its side and cover only lightly; burying it too deeply can slow or prevent emergence.

Germination Conditions

Warm, humid conditions with a well-drained medium; bright indirect light rather than harsh direct sun while germinating.

Germination Time

Typically several weeks to a couple of months, and germination can be uneven across a batch.

Seedling Care

Keep young seedlings in bright, indirect light and frost-free conditions; growth is slow at first.

Stem Cuttings

Cutting Type

Only cuttings from the terminal (apical) leader shoot should be used if a normal, upright single-trunk tree is wanted; lateral branch cuttings root but grow permanently horizontal and never develop a vertical leader.

Best Timing

Warm growing season.

Cutting Preparation

Semi-hardwood tip cutting from the leader shoot.

Rooting Setup

Well-drained, humid rooting medium with warmth; conifer cuttings of this type are slow and can be inconsistent to root.

Rooting Hormone

May help improve an otherwise slow, uneven rooting rate, though it is not essential.

Rooting Time

Slow; often several months.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Spring
• Time to First Bloom: Only on large, old trees – indoor and young specimens rarely, if ever, cone
• Flower Appearance: Small yellow male (pollen) cones and separate female cones (which can occur on the same tree), ripening yellow to brown
• Edibility: Ornamental / none at the bloom stage – popular as a shade tree and houseplant

Detailed Blooming Overview

Norfolk Island pine is a conifer, so it produces cones rather than true flowers, and it only does so as a large, mature tree – the young plants grown indoors as living Christmas trees will not cone. On old specimens, small yellow pollen cones and separate rounded female cones form, the female cones ripening from yellow to brown.

Flower Characteristics

• Male pollen cones are small and yellow.
• Female cones are rounded and ripen from yellow to brown.
• Male and female cones are usually separate but can occur on the same tree.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Nothing to deadhead: The cones need no thinning.
• Pollination: Wind carries the pollen; no insects are involved.
• Reality check: Don’t expect cones from a potted or young tree – coning is strictly a feature of tall, mature specimens.

Fruit & Uses

Norfolk Island pine produces edible seeds (“nuts”) tucked inside its large cones, and where they can be gathered they are eaten raw, roasted, or made into a paste. In practice this is an occasional bonus rather than a reliable crop: trees take decades to reach cone-bearing size, don’t cone every year, and specimens grown small, indoors, or shaped as bonsai – a common way this species is grown – typically never flower or fruit at all.

Quick Edible Specs

Edible Parts	Seeds (“nuts”) inside the cone
Main Use(s)	Culinary – eaten raw, roasted, or ground into a paste
Eaten Raw or Cooked	Either – raw or roasted
Preparation Required	Crack/remove the woody nutshell
Harvest Season	Summer
Time to First Harvest	Very long – commonly decades; trees grown small, indoors, or as bonsai typically never cone (see Pruning/Care for growth habit)
Safety/Toxicity Caveat	None specific to the seed itself beyond needing to crack the hard shell; don’t rely on an ornamental specimen to fruit

Seeds, Pods & Nuts

The edible part is the seed (“nut”), yellow-cream in colour and enclosed in a brown, woody nutshell, borne inside a cone. Yield is irregular – the tree doesn’t cone every year – and woodpeckers are noted to compete for the crop.

Harvesting

Cones are collected from the ground in summer once they’ve fallen or broken apart; the nutshell is then cracked open to reach the seed inside. Because trees can take roughly 20-40 years before they first bear cones, this is a long-term prospect best suited to trees left to grow to full size outdoors rather than container or bonsai specimens.

Preparation, Uses & Safety

Once cracked out of its shell, the seed can be eaten raw, roasted, or worked into a paste. No specific toxicity is noted for the seed, but treat the “edible” claim with realistic expectations – many cultivated Norfolk Island pines, particularly those grown ornamentally or as bonsai, will never produce cones to harvest.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: The Norfolk Island pine is a subtropical conifer usually grown indoors, where its main pests are scale (the most common), mealybugs and, in dry heated air, spider mites. Disease is limited mainly to root rot from overwatering. Most of its troubles, though, are abiotic: lower-branch browning and needle drop from low humidity, dry heat, drafts or watering errors — and crucially it does NOT regrow lost lower branches, so protecting the canopy is essential. Bright light, even moisture and moderate humidity keep it healthy.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Scale insects	Brown bumps on needles/stems, honeydew	Wipe off, prune, horticultural oil, keep vigorous
Mealybugs	White cottony tufts in axils	Alcohol swab, isolate, oil/soap
Spider mites	Stippled, bronzed, dropping needles	Raise humidity, rinse foliage, oil
Root rot	Lower branches brown, mushy roots	Free-draining mix, water then let top dry
Needle drop	Lower branches brown and fall (do not regrow)	Bright light, even moisture, humidity, no drafts

Common Pests & Management

• Scale insects (Coccidae / Diaspididae):
  • Symptoms: Brown, oval limpet-like bumps clamped along the needles, branchlets and stems — the most common Norfolk Island pine pest indoors — often with sticky honeydew and black sooty mould, and yellowing, dropping foliage.
  • Prevention & Control: Wipe or scrape off accessible scale, prune out heavily encrusted branchlets, and smother with horticultural oil, repeating to catch the mobile crawler stage; isolate infested plants and keep the tree vigorous and unstressed.
• Mealybugs (Pseudococcus / Planococcus spp.):
  • Symptoms: White cottony tufts in the branch axils and along the stems, with honeydew and sooty mould; growth stunts and foliage yellows.
  • Prevention & Control: Dab off with an alcohol-dipped cotton bud, isolate the plant, encourage lacewings where feasible, and treat repeatedly with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
• Spider mites (Tetranychus / Oligonychus spp.):
  • Symptoms: Fine stippling, dullness and bronzing of the needles with faint webbing, thriving in the warm, dry air of heated rooms; foliage fades and drops.
  • Prevention & Control: Raise humidity, rinse or hose the foliage, and introduce predatory mites; horticultural oil or insecticidal soap controls outbreaks.
• Aphids (Aphidoidea):
  • Symptoms: Soft insects on soft new growth with honeydew and sooty mould; occasional and usually minor.
  • Prevention & Control: Rinse off, encourage beneficials, and use insecticidal soap only if persistent.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Root rot (Phytophthora / Pythium spp.):
  • Symptoms: Browning and dropping of the lower branches, yellowing and general decline, with dark, mushy roots from overwatering or a poorly drained, waterlogged pot.
  • Treatment & Management: Grow in a free-draining mix, water thoroughly then let the top few centimetres dry, and never leave the pot standing in water; correct drainage promptly, as advanced root rot is usually fatal.
• Anthracnose / needle blight (Colletotrichum / various fungi):
  • Symptoms: Browning and dieback of needle tips and branchlets in warm, wet, stagnant conditions, sometimes with dark lesions; secondary to stress and poor airflow.
  • Treatment & Management: Improve airflow, avoid wetting the foliage, remove affected branchlets, and keep the plant healthy; treatment is rarely needed if culture is corrected.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Lower-branch browning & needle drop:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Low humidity, dry heat, drafts, over- or under-watering, or too little light cause the lower branches to brown and drop — and, unlike many plants, Norfolk pines do NOT regrow lost lower branches.
  • Correction Strategy: Keep it in bright light with moderate humidity, away from heat sources and drafts, and water evenly (moist, not soggy); protect the lower canopy, since it cannot be recovered once lost.
• Drooping, weak branches / leaning:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Insufficient light makes branches thin, droopy and sparse, and the whole plant leans toward the light and grows lopsided.
  • Correction Strategy: Give bright light (ideally some direct sun indoors), and rotate the plant regularly for even, upright, symmetrical growth.
• Salt build-up / brown tips:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Fertiliser-salt accumulation and hard water brown the needle tips.
  • Correction Strategy: Flush the mix periodically with clean water, feed lightly during active growth, and use soft or rain water where the supply is hard.
• Cold damage:
  • Cause & Symptoms: As a subtropical (Norfolk Island) conifer it is frost-tender and chills below about 5 °C.
  • Correction Strategy: Keep it above its cold threshold, away from cold windows and drafts, and never leave it outdoors in frost.

What Helps — Products & Tools

Cultural care is central: bright light, moderate humidity, even watering and a free-draining mix. Where pests appear, suitable types are horticultural oil or insecticidal soap for scale, mealybugs, mites and aphids, applied thoroughly and repeated for crawlers; correcting drainage — not a fungicide — is the answer to root rot. Flush salts with clean water and feed lightly.